How To Cut Gunpla

Gunpla is the Japanese word for plastic model which is based on Mobile Suit Gundam, a popular Japanese television show.Due to their intricate designs, interesting lore, and widespread fan base, Gundam Mechs are some of the most popular building models of all time.Gundam model pieces come out of the box in a grid-like sheet of plastic called a sprue.Every piece ends up with a small piece of plastic stuck out where it used to connect to the grid when you remove the individual pieces from the sprue.If you want to assemble a perfect model, you need to cut and remove the plastic bumps called nubs.

Step 1: Take your weapon out of the packaging and read the instructions.

You should find a comfortable table or desk once you get your model.Take the pieces out of the package and read the instructions.Every manufacturer has a different format for their instructions.If there is anything unique about your model, take a few minutes to look over the info.This process takes 1-2 hours depending on how clean your model is and how complicated it is.It is possible to do it all in one sitting.If you are working on a model with hundreds of pieces, the process can be pretty Zen.This is a great time to catch up on your favorite show or listen to new music while you work.

Step 2: Take a clean cloth or cutting board and grab some pliers.

Set a plastic grid on top of a cloth or cutting board to keep pieces scratch-free.Take the pieces out of the sprue with a set of side-cutting pliers.The pliers look like regular needle nose pliers, except one side is flat and the other side has rounded blades.You will end up with stress marks on the pieces if you push each piece out of the grid.If you just build these models casually, it is best to use pliers if you want a professional look.

Step 3: Cut a piece out of the connection with the pliers.

You can start with any piece.The flat blade should be facing away from the piece you are cutting out.The jaws of the pliers should be wrapped around the plastic line connecting the piece to the sprue.Remove the plastic line from the piece by closing the handles.If there are multiple lengths of plastic connecting your piece to the sprue, repeat this process for each connection.You have to leave some plastic on the piece where you cut it.You may end up with permanent scratches on the piece from the pliers rubbing against the plastic if you try to cut each piece clean off.The results will be amazing if you do it the right way.The rounded portion of the blades reduces the amount of stress on the piece as you cut it out.Stress marks are caused by the amount of stress on each piece.

Step 4: Set aside the pieces that were removed from the sprue.

For every piece of your model, repeat this process.Take the blades away from the piece you are cutting and cut the plastic connections above it.Once you have removed all the pieces, put them aside on your cloth or cutting board.If you prefer, you can do each piece individually and leave the other pieces in the sprue, but cutting your pieces out is the least interesting part of this process.The fun part of the building is when you cut, sand, and finish the pieces.

Step 5: You want to clean up the first piece.

If you don't enjoy trying to find matching pieces, you should work in the order of the instructions.You can either complete the entire process in layers, repeating each step on every block, or do each piece individually.Pick a process that makes sense to you.The first step is cutting with the side-cutting pliers.You can either complete the entire process on one piece and then start over with the next one, or you can do this on every piece.It's up to you.

Step 6: Put your pliers down and slide them under the nub.

Pick a nub to start with.The pliers should be turned so the flat blades face the piece.Put the jaws around the nub that is sticking out from the spot where you cut the plastic connection.The first time you cut the pieces out, the sprue is strong enough to transfer stress marks on to the plastic pieces.When there is only a small amount of plastic left, you are less likely to damage it.

Step 7: To remove the plastic from the sprue, clip the nub off slowly.

Put the piece in your nondominant hand and hold the pliers.Close the handles around the base of the nub.This is done for all the nubs on your piece.

Step 8: Use the blade of a utility knife to remove the nub.

There will be a small spot on the spot you cut off when you snap the nub off.The blade of a small utility or hobby knife should be held against the side of the piece at a 10- to 20-degree angle.To remove the remaining portion of the nub, rub the surface with your blade.Don't drag the blade against the plastic surface; it's a soft motion.Don't worry about cutting the plastic.If you use a light touch, your pieces will be fine.The components of the models are strong.

Step 9: The stress marks are gone with an 800-grit sanding stick.

There will be black or white stress marks on the plastic piece if the nub is removed.To get rid of these marks, grab a sanding stick.Take the flat side of the sanding stick and rub it over the stress marks for a short time.Most board game stores, gaming shops, and craft stores have these sanding sticks.You can find them in art supply stores.They look similar to nail files.Whether you end up with black or white stress marks depends on the color of your piece.White stress marks are more likely to be found on dark plastic.

Step 10: If you feel the plastic, you can see if there are any rough edges.

The area you sanded should be covered by the pad of your index finger.If the surface is smooth, you can use the 800-grit stick.Sand the piece gently until the surface is smooth, if there are still some bumps.Don't worry about scratches, you're only concerned with the stress marksBefore you can remove the scratches, you need to sand them out.

Step 11: If you want to remove scratches, use a 2000-grit sanding stick.

If the surface is flat, inspect the area you sanded.You can stop here if it looks perfect.There may be a few scratches on the 800-grit sandpaper.To remove them, gently sand the surface with a 2000-grit sandpaper stick.The scratches should be removed with this.If you plan on painting the plastic white, you don't need to complete the rest of these steps.White pieces won't have blood visible on them by this point.

Step 12: If necessary, brush the surface with a finishing sponge.

A double-sided sanding sponge is usually marketed as a finishing sponge if you still see small sanding marks in the plastic.Take the soft side of the sponge and rub it against the plastic to buff it out.Continue until the piece looks perfect.If you don't have a finishing sponge or a specific buffing tool, you can use a clean rubber eraser.

Step 13: Get your model ready for assembly by repeating this process with the other pieces.

When you're done with your first piece, put it on another part of your cutting board or towel to separate it from the rest.Pick your next piece and repeat the entire process with the rest of your model components to get it ready for assembly.You can do all of your pieces in portions.You can use a utility knife on all of the pieces, then use an 800-grit sanding stick on the rest.As long as you complete each step on every piece, it doesn't really matter how you work.

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