A flint knapper is a person who shapes stone through the process of striking with another object.The human race used this technique for many years to create tools and weapons.
Step 1: Pick a material for shaping.
The easiest materials to start with are chert, flint, and obsidian.These all leave smooth surfaces behind when fractured, require relatively little force to chip, and usually have a uniform, fine grain.You can experiment with materials that are more difficult to work with once you have made a few small objects with these.Use a hard object to tap the material.The higher the pitch, the better it is.If you have a geological guide to your area, you can find many of these on eBay.Do not disturb the piles of stone.These are part of the archaeological record and should not be disturbed.
Step 2: Pick a piece.
Pick a stone that has few cracks, fissures, bubbles, significant grain, and noticeable inclusions, which would likely cause it to break or flake off in ways contrary to the shape you are trying to achieve.There are two options when it comes to size and shape, A is ready to be turned into an arrowhead or other tool.These are not very large.A is a large stone that you can break.You'll probably have to start with one of these if you're hunting on your own.The term "preform" can refer to either of the above stages.A tool is a material that has not been formed into one.
Step 3: Take your flintknapping tools with you.
If you are working with a ready-made flake, you don't need a pressure flaker, just an antler tine or copper nail set in a wooden handle.If you have a core, you'll need a more powerful striking tool, either a cylindrical "billet" or a dense, round stone that fits your hand.If you are starting with a core, you need a piece of limestone or other stone softer than your material.The tips section gives more information on choosing pressure flakers.The risk of "tennis elbow" from repeated use is reduced by using a 1 ft (0.3 m) long pressure flaker tool.For your first attempt, a smaller one may be easier to use.
Step 4: Wear protective clothing.
You'll be handling sharp, broken stone.Long pants and goggles are required.It is recommended that you wear long sleeves and gloves as well.A piece of leather to drape over your leg is recommended.
Step 5: Work is done inventilated areas.
In an open area, away from a structure, or in aventilated area with a high-powered fan, always work outdoors.Stone dust can damage lungs and eyes over time, especially in an area of still air where it creates clouds of dust.Once you are done, you can discard the fragments by covering a tarp or cloth.Feet can be cut by fragments left on the ground.
Step 6: It's a good idea to sit comfortably.
It is possible to knap on a table or bench, but sitting cross-legged with the stone in one hand is the traditional method.It can be difficult for beginners.Try to find out which sitting position gives you the most control.If you already have a flat side on your core, you can continue on to the next step and use direct percussion.If you bought a ready-made flake with a thick, dull edge, you should remove it below or directly to the section on pressure flaking.Pick something smaller for your first project if you need a table or large stone.
Step 7: If necessary, create a platform on the core.
If your core is round or irregular, you'll need to strike it with a hammerstone to create a platform.If you want a round rock, tilt the core to about 40o and strike straight downward.Next to the side that narrows inward is the platform.You can't use any side that bulges out from the platform or go straight down at a 90o angle.
Step 8: If necessary, use direct percussion to create flakes.
If you have a flat platform, you can use your hammerstone or billet to strike off thin, relatively flat pieces and turn them into tools.The stone will break from the point of impact.The platform should be at a 40o angle from the vertical if you tilt the core.The tool will hit the lower end of the platform with a glancing blow.You may need to repeat this several times around the platform until you get a piece that is mostly flat, and a fair amount larger than the tool you want to make.If the material splits into three pieces or the platform collapses around the blow, the angle is too small.The angle is too large if you're only getting tiny chips.
Step 9: The shape needs to be trimmed.
Unless you were lucky enough to get a perfect triangular or rectangular flake, you'll need to break it further.If you want to end up with a larger piece, you should use the same direct percussion technique.
Step 10: The edge of the flake needs to be sanded.
flint knife sharpening is one of the most important processes.A newly struck flake needs to be ground down to a dull, thicker edge so it can survive the impact of the tool.If you want to accomplish this, grind the edge of your flake in a sawing motion against a stone that is a bit less hard.Old grinding wheels work well for smooth limestone.If grooves appear in the tool you are grinding with, it's a good sign that it is softer than the flake.If the fragile edges have been ground down, you'll have a platform that can take extreme lithic engineering.
Step 11: Understand pressure.
It's time to begin pressure flaking after your flake is reduced so that it is at least seven or eight times wider.Placing your work into a fold of thick leather is how pressure flaking is achieved.Hold this in your hand, place a pointed tool on the edge of the stone, and apply an inward pressure to the tool, focusing energy toward the inner area.You don't want to hit the center with the tool.The goal is to apply pressure until the tool removes a small, thin piece from the stone.You are working from the edge.The force you used in percussion was in the opposite direction.The piece could break if you push down on the edge.In order to shape that section to a more usable area, you may need to skip some areas or guide the pressure flaker around it from both directions.
Step 12: Understand how to hold the pressure flaker.
Rest your pressure flaker against your hip if it's too long.Rest your hand against the inside of your leg.If you want to use the inside of the leg for stability, try not to flex the elbow of your hand, but use a little strength from the wrist.The wood will push down into the flake if you hold the pressure flaker above the center.Put pressure on the lower side of the flake.The quicker you apply pressure, the longer it will take.Don't bend either wrist.
Step 13: The edge of the flake is under pressure.
If you want to take off additional, smaller flakes, use the pressure flaking method.If you flip the preform over, make another one on the opposite side.This allows you to inspect each flake after you make it.The result should be a "bifacial edge" with a row of marks on each side.Remove short flakes with relatively fast pressure.This shouldn't be an issue because most beginners find it easy to make short flakes.This is the longest part of the project.Accept that you may break a few flakes while learning, and take it slow.
Step 14: Take care of the edge.
If you want to make two flakes in the same place, you have to abrad in between.The closer you get to the finished product, the less you will have to abrade, as you are working towards the final product of a delicate, razor sharp edge and point.
Step 15: Keep your pressure flaker sharp.
The copper or antler tip will wear down quickly, so sharpen it several times during the creation of a single tool, using a knife or stone.To change the behavior of the tool slightly, knappers pound the copper tip flat to a thin chisel shape.If you prefer the chisel to the point tip, you can try it at this point.
Step 16: Continue until you reach the desired shape.
Continue the pressure flaking process after abrading.If you want to thin the tool right up to the raised center, try to use slower, more prolonged pressure on the next few circles.After each full circle, abrade.Once the final shape is complete, it is a good idea to do a final run of pressure flaking.You don't abrade the edge after you finish, leaving it sharp for use as a cutting or piercing tool.If you want to taper it gradually to an arrow or spear point, you would use longer flakes near one end and smaller ones at the other.It takes a lot of practice for experienced knappers to get to that point.One of them recommends pointing the pressure flaker at the opposite edge and rotating the hand until it pops off.
Step 17: It is possible to make a notch or stem.
You can put the finishing touches on a point by notching the base or forming a stem.This is a difficult skill to learn and many beginners break their first tool or severely alter the shape.This is necessary if you plan on tying the tool to a handle.Hold the tool flat and press it through the entire tool.Use gentle pressure to trim it flat after flipping the tool over and repeating to extend the notch.A flattened steel nail in a wooden handle makes a better notching tool, as the harder metal focuses the energy to a smaller area.To prevent it from cutting the string, grind the notch's inner edge.