There are many techniques for joining wood.An edge joint is the best way to join the boards side by side.To bond the boards, arrange them so that they are visually pleasing.Glue alone isn't the best option if you need to make corner joints.If you want to strengthen your joint, drill pocket holes and use screws.The job is quick and easy with a pocket hole jig.
Step 1: Use chalk to mark your boards.
The best looking side of the boards will be visible in your final project.You can align the grains by shifting the boards around.Make a big V-shape with chalk or a lumber crayon when you are happy with their alignment.If you are making a table, you want to use the most attractive sides of your boards.You want their grains and colors to line up so they don't look different.The lines of your V don't have to be straight.The shape needs to be made across all of the boards.If the boards are aligned correctly, the V will be legible.
Step 2: The boards should be across the strips of wood.
You can raise the boards off of your work surface with thin, evenly sized strips of wood.Excess glue will get out from the joints when you glue and tighten your boards.The boards should be raised to keep your work surface clean.If your boards are long, add a strip of scrap wood in the middle.
Step 3: Glue along the edge of the board.
If you want to spread a bead of glue, hold the bottle with one hand and the nozzle with the other.The nozzle should be moved quickly across the edge.Glue shouldn't be applied to the edges that you're joining.Too much glue will cause more mess.
Step 4: Make sure the boards are flush.
Press the edges together and secure them.Depending on the length of your boards, you can add additional clamps in the middle.If you want to not have to sand away imperfections after the glue has cured, try to get your boards perfectly flush.
Step 5: Remove excess glue after 20 minutes.
You can wipe excess glue off the top surface with a damp cloth.Remove the clamps after 20 minutes to flip the boards and clean the bottom side.Use a knife to remove excess glue.The glue needs several hours to cure, so handle the joined boards gently.You have to wait an hour or more to remove the clamps in humid conditions.
Step 6: Allow the glue to cure for a while.
After a short time, you can safely remove the clamps, but the glue won't last long.You should let it dry before you work on the boards.
Step 7: Before you drill, plan your work.
You want the boards to appear in your final project, so lay them out.To mark where you want to drill, use a pencil.As drilling into end grain makes for a weaker joint, make sure you drill into face or edge grain.You can tell the end grain by looking at the surface and arrangement of the growth rings.The side of a board that is more porous is the end grain.The exposed radii of a tree's growth rings can only be seen at the end grain.They look like a bunch of lines.To complete the process, you'll drill pilot holes into a board, align it with another, then drive screws through the first and second boards.If you don't know how to drill pocket holes, it's wise to practice on scrap wood.
Step 8: The depth of the jig should be set to the wood thickness.
A good pocket hole jig has a graduated alignment guide.You can adjust the alignment guide by pulling it into and out of the jig's body.To set the jig, you need to find the line on the alignment guide.A built-in alignment guide is a must for a jig.Products that lack these features are more difficult to use.
Step 9: The jig has a guide hole that you can use to adjust the bit collar.
You use a collar to control the hole's depth with a pocket hole drill bit.The collar should be loosened by using an Allen wrench.The bit must be inserted into one of the jig's guide holes to reach the tip.The collar should be placed over the top end of the bit so that it sits flush on the jig.
Step 10: Attach the board to the jig.
Place your board into the jig so the marks you made are in line with the guide holes.Make sure you don't see the side of the board that faces the guide holes in your final project because you'll be drilling into it.If you are making a frame, make sure youdrill into the back side of the board rather than the front side.If you cut a 45 degree angle into your board, lay the board so the angle sits against the base of the jig.
Step 11: At high speeds, drill the pilot holes.
To create cleaner holes, set the drill to its highest speed and lock the bit into the power drill.Remove the bit from the collar by pulling it out of one of the guide holes.Continue drilling until the collar stops you from drilling any deeper, then insert the bit back into the guide hole.If you want to repeat the process, insert your bit into the guide hole on the other side of the board.
Step 12: Put your boards at the joint.
If you drilled your pilot holes in the right direction, line up your boards to double check.Attach an even bead of glue to the edge of the board you want to join, press the edges together, then tighten the joint to lock the boards in place.The joint won't be flush if you drive screws without clamping the boards.While using screws alone creates a strong joint, using woodworking glue will help keep the joint flush during the season.
Step 13: Pick the right screws for your project.
Fine-thread pocket hole screws are used for hardwood lumber.The length of the screw depends on the wood.The boards need a 1 4 in screw to fit.A guide chart can be found in pocket hole screw packaging.You can find them online.Only pocket hole screws are used.The washer sits flush with the flat edge created by the pocket hole drill bit.
Step 14: Slowly drive screws through the pilot holes.
Put the screw in your drill and drive it through the pilot hole.The next screw should be driven into the other pilot hole.When you are done driving your screws, remove the clamps.
Step 15: Remove excess glue.
If glue seeped out of the joint, wipe it away with a damp cloth.Remove it with a knife if it starts to set and become jelly-like.