How To Make a Ball Jointed Doll

Ball jointed dolls are fully-articulated.The original dolls were made in Japan, but other companies in China and South Korea are making them as well.Making your own ball jointed doll can be expensive, but it is a great way to make a doll of your dreams.

Step 1: You can learn a lot about ball jointed dolls.

There are online articles about ball jointed dolls.Understand how they are strung together.If you can, try to handle it in person.If you plan to sell your sculpt, be familiar with the metric system.In centimeters, ball jointed dolls are measured.Their eyes are measured in millimeters.If you want to sell your sculpt, use these as your primary measurements.Ball jointed dolls can be found in forums and social media groups.

Step 2: Pick the size of the doll you want to make.

There are three main sizes of bjds.It is usually 55 to 57 cm tall.They are sometimes called that.It is usually 57 to 60 cm (22 to 24 in) tall.You can get them larger: 65 to 72 cm.They are usually 42 to 44 cm (17 to 17 in) tall.The Yo-SDs are about 10 in tall."Yo Super Dollfie" is what "SD," "MSD," and "Sid" stand for.The bigger the doll, the more expensive it will be to cast.

Step 3: Do you want a child-like doll or a mature-looking doll?

Most SD dolls have full breasts or defined muscles.The dolls made by Volks have softer, more child-like bodies.You can get mature dolls, like the Fairyland MiniFee.You can make a yoSD doll that is more mature and slender.Tinies are usually called mature yoSDs.

Step 4: Decide between a realistic style.

Dollfie Dreams are similar to the Bjds.Even realistic bjds have larger busts and narrower waists than the average human.The long, slender, willowy bodies of some sculptors make their dolls even more stylized.Dollzone and Doll Chateau dolls are examples.Make an anthro or animal doll.They are usually small with large proportions.The most popular animals are cats and rabbits.

Step 5: From the front and side, draw a full-sized sketch of your doll.

One of the things that makes a bjd different from other dolls is that they are correct.The male and female dolls have penises.You need to match the size of the doll you are making with the sketch.The genitals don't need to be very detailed.They can be either a bulge or a slit.

Step 6: The joints in the arms, legs, and head should be added.

A basic bjd has joints in the following areas: knees, thighs, hips, wrists, and arms.It will have a joint in the neck and base of the head.A torso joint can be found in 1 of the following areas: ribcage/waist, under-bust, or hips.Some dolls have joints in the knees and elbows.This means that the joint is separate from the knee and elbow sockets.The thighs fit into sockets in the hips and have a slit for the elastic so that the doll can sit.There is a joint in the upper thigh for some dolls.A clean horizontal line is what this joint is.

Step 7: If you want, you can add a sketch for the core.

You can if you want to, but you don't have to.You can use the core to figure out how big the hollow parts of the doll are.You can either draw the core on tracing paper or tape it over your sketch.

Step 8: Make sure your doll fits other companies' eyes, wigs, and shoes.

Bjds have no eyes.Making wigs and eyes yourself can be time consuming and expensive.The majority of people buy their eyes, wigs, and shoes from bjd companies.If you want your shopping to be easier, make sure your doll fits the standard sizes.There are even sized eyes for sale, ranging from 6mm to 24mm.The wigs are sold in inches.There is a 7 2 in (19 cm) head with a 7.5 wig.The shoes are sold in different sizes.To fit inside the shoe, your doll's foot needs to be small.

Step 9: Use foam or aluminum foil to build your core.

Shapes for the head, torso, and limbs are created from carve foam.Don't add any joints yet, but make the head, limbs, and torso separate pieces.Wrap foam with foil and tape.Between the core and the outline of the sketch, leave 2 to 5mm.straws can be used for the arms and legsDrinking straws will work for dolls.Larger drinking straws will work better for dolls.

Step 10: Add rough hip and shoulder sockets by covering your core with clay.

Paper clay can be used to build over your core pieces.Add sockets into the torso for the shoulder and hips if you don't include any details.To make room for the eye sockets, add 2 round balls to the head.Make sure they match the size of your doll's eyes.

Step 11: Remove the core from the clay by cutting it apart.

Allow the clay to dry.Once it has dried, use a craft blade or dremel to slice the torso and limb pieces along the sides.The head should be separated along the crown.The paper clay shell has a core.There are 2 pieces to the head: a cap and a head.The cut should go around the forehead, above the ears, and the back of the nape.Pull the eye sockets out if they remained in the head.The core pieces need to be saved for casting.

Step 12: Attach the torso and limb shells with clay.

Super glue can be used to reassemble the cut pieces.To make them strong, smooth the seams with more paper clay.The head and head cap should not be reassembled.These will be separate.

Step 13: Put more paper clay on the doll's body.

To sculpt the doll's torso, limbs, and head, use more paper clay.Pay attention to the muscles, facial features, and genitals.As much as possible was drawn.

Step 14: The hands and feet should be sculpted with rounded tops.

You can build these on your own.You don't need to cut these apart because the hands and feet are solid through.The ankle and wrist sockets should be rounded so that they fit.

Step 15: Attach the doll to the joints by cutting it apart.

You can slice the doll apart by using a craft blade or a Dremel.The lower arms and legs should be cut off at a slight angle.The bottoms of the arms and thighs should be done the same way.The doll can move their arms and knees more freely.The angles should be away from the knees and elbows.

Step 16: New joints and sockets can be sculpted.

The lower arms and legs should be covered with plastic wrap.To create sockets, add some clay to the bottoms of the arms and thighs.The upper arms should have balls added to them.It's better to make them parallel to the arm than right on top.The arms will hang straight down if this is used.The inside edge of the upper torso piece should be softened.They are able to fit together like bowls.

Step 17: There are strings to the balls and sockets.

A stringing hole can be added to the shoulder, elbow, hip, and knee balls.If it got covered up, add a hole to the top of the neck.The channels inside the limbs need to be the same size as the holes.The clay is wet.The holes can be made if the clay is dried.

Step 18: The ankle and wrist balls can be stringed.

The slit needs to go from the stringing hole to the bottom edge of the ball.The center-front of the thigh ball is where the slit should be.The doll needs to sit while the slit is long.Inside the arm is where the ball fits into the sockets.The inside arm has an elbow.Feet run parallel to the length of the ball.The hands are from the palm to the top of the hand.

Step 19: Magnet and stringing holes can be added to the head and head cap.

You can see a set of magnets when you pull the head cap away.If you want to put magnets in your doll's head and cap, you should use a dremel to drill similar holes.Don't put the magnets in yet.After you cast the doll, you will add them.There is a small hole in the bottom of the bjd's head.The hole is the same size as the neck hole.The slit is wide enough to hold the elastic and S-hook.

Step 20: Hook bars should be added to the ankle and wrist balls.

You can either add some clay to the top of the slit or use a piece of wire.The hook can be latched onto the hands and feet with this.

Step 21: After the clay is dry, sand the doll.

The doll should be coated with a few layers of primer.Let it dry and then sand it.You can't see the clay until you get the finish that you like.

Step 22: Work out any issues with the stringing.

In the future, this will save you a lot of grief.Use the last method to string your doll.Make sure that the joints are in good shape.The doll should be able to stand on it's own.For this part, use loose stringing.You risk breaking the clay if you make it tight.

Step 23: Make a mold out of Lego bricks and fill it with clay.

You will need 1 mold box for each piece you cast, but smaller pieces can fit into a single box.The wall should be taller than the piece when it is on the side.To prevent leaks, fill the bottom of each mold box with stone or ceramic clay.Don't allow the clay to dry.

Step 24: The pieces should be put in the mold boxes.

The pieces should be pressed halfway into the clay.Feet should be placed on their sides, and hands on the floor.The cap needs to sit on the clay.The seams on the sides of the pieces should be set into the clay.Place marbles in the corners of the box.You can align the mold pieces during casting.

Step 25: Let it set after filling the mold boxes with Silicone.

Buy high-quality casting silicone from a casting shop or online store.Put Parts A and B into the mold.Let the set be used.Silicone from a casting supply store is a good quality.Don't use cheap silicone from the store.

Step 26: To fill the second half, remove the silicone and reverse it.

Take everything out of the box.The mold should be put into the box with the cavity facing up.The piece needs to be put back into the mold.The rest of the mold should be filled with more silicone after the top is coated with mold release.Let the set be used.

Step 27: The core should be inserted into the molds.

Remove everything from the molds.The straws should be inserted into the molds.When you get to the torso and head molds, you should put straws into the cores where the stringing holes are.Attach the molds with rubber bands.Styrofoam core pieces can be covered with plastic wrap or masking tape.

Step 28: The doll needs to be cast.

One thing that all of them have in common is that they are all made from the same material.Purchase the resin from a casting supply store and tint it to your liking.If you want the doll to be made from a different type of material, you should buy semi-translucent urethane.Some dolls are white, while others are skin-toned.It is possible to try a fantasy color, such as gray or purple.

Step 29: De-mold the pieces after the cure.

The type that you used affects how long it takes to cure.This can take a few minutes to an hour.Remove the pieces from the molds, then take out the core pieces.You might have to re-cast it if it came out warped.

Step 30: If you can't do it yourself, ask a casting company to cast your doll for you.

There are many companies that will cast dolls for other people.You can research what casting companies are willing to cast bjds.Casting companies usually have a minimum requirement of 10 dolls.Consider doing a pre-order if you are serious about this.You can pre-order a doll from other people.You have to ship the dolls to your customers once the company casts them.

Step 31: If you want to do any extra drilling, sand the doll's seams.

When you sand the pieces, be sure to wear a mask for fine dust particles.You can use a tool to sand the pieces.Start off with a rough substance and finish with something more fine.If a stringing hole is filled, you'll have to drill it.The ankle and wrist bars should be checked to make sure they haven't been filled in.

Step 32: Attach silver magnets to the doll's head cap.

You can buy these magnets online in a size that matches the holes you made.Attach the magnets to the holes with super glue.Make sure that the polarities are correct.Do not use regular magnets.They are not strong enough.

Step 33: There are bars on the wrist and ankle balls.

Buy small S-hooks from a hardware store.Make sure they are small enough to fit in the stringing channels, then hook them over the wrists.A large S hook is needed for the head.

Step 34: Tie the elastic around the arms and legs.

Measure the distance from the left wrist to the center of the chest, then cut a piece of elastic according to that measurement.Measure the doll from the top of the neck to the bottom of its torso, then double it and cut another piece of elastic.Tie the elastic into loops.The elastic thickness depends on the size of the doll.The thicker the elastic is, the bigger your doll is.You can find round elastic that is white in color in online bjd stores.

Step 35: Use the elastic to string your doll.

Attach the shorter piece to the S-hooks by threading it through the arms.Place the larger loop in half.Pull it down through the neck and torso after you latched it onto the large S-hook.Pull each half through each leg and put it on the S-hooks.Use a pipe cleaner to string your doll.There are online bjd stores where you can find stringing tools.If you're confused about stringing your bjd, you can ask a fellow hobbyist to help you.

Step 36: Your doll will have a faceup, eyes, wig, and clothing.

If you want to give the doll a faceup, you can either use an online tutorials or commission someone to do it for you.Purchase clothing, shoes, eyes, and a wig for your doll from a bjd supply.The wig should fit over the doll's head, but you will need to put the eyes on it.A faceup is the application of makeup to a doll's face.If you use clay to set the eyes, you will stain it.Be careful with what you use for your doll's faceup.It is recommended that specific brands be used for a reason.You can make your doll's clothes yourself if you know how to sew.Some people sell patterns that aren't compatible with your doll.

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