It was invented in 1934 by O.G.With an electric trolly motor, fishermen can maneuver their boats at slower speeds than with an outboard motor and with greater control.They are an option for propelling boats across lakes where "no-wake" rules are in effect.The transom, engine itself, or on the bow are the places where trolling motors can be mounted for freshwater and saltwater fishing.There are instructions on how to mount a motor in each of these places.
Step 1: You can open the mounting brackets.
There are 1 or 2 clamps built into the mounting brackets to hold the motor in place.The clamps can be turned counterclockwise to open them.
Step 2: The motor should be put over the transom.
If there is a main motor, the trolly motor should be placed as close to the center of the stern as possible.The mount should be flush with the stern.
Step 3: The clamps need to be tightened.
The motor won't vibrate if the clamps are turned clockwise as far as they can go.To keep the propeller from breaking the water's surface, the center of the motor section should be under 9 inches of water.This produces noise that scares fish.
Step 4: The engine's anti-cavitation plate should be placed on top of the mounting brackets.
The anti-cavitation is a horizontal plate above the propeller on either an outboard motor or an inboard-outboard motor that prevents it from breaking the water's surface as it pushes the boat forward.The mount is designed so that when the boat is in the air, the motor breaks the water's surface.The anti-cavitation plate needs to run at a depth of at least 13 inches below the waterline so that the trolly motor can run while in use.
Step 5: There are holes to be drilled through the anti-cavitation plate.
The mount is a template for this.
Step 6: The holes are for the mounting bolts.
To drill through the metal of the anti-cavitation plate, use a drill bit that is sharp and tough.
Step 7: The anti-cavitation plate should be placed on top of the mounting brackets again.
Step 8: Attach the bolts and tighten them.
The motor will be secured.Only boats that go "on plane" can have engine-mounted trolling motors.They aren't designed to be used with pontoon boats or sailboats.
Step 9: The mount base needs to be separated from the motor assembly.
A bow-mounted electric trolly motor can be used on boats with raised forward decks.Bass boats are designed for fishing for largemouth bass in shallow water around weeds and stumps where precise boat control is needed.
Step 10: The base should be on the deck.
When the boat's main motor is pushing it through the water, you should place the mount base where it can accommodate the motor both when it is pulling it and on the deck.The base should be placed where there is enough clearance for the motor to break away from the base, and where the mounting screws can penetrate the deck but not the hull.
Step 11: The holes will be drilled into the deck.
The mount base is a template.
Step 12: The holes are for the mounting bolts.
If you want to clear out any debris after drilling, use a sharp bit.You will have to countersink the holes if the boat is made of fiberglass.
Step 13: Attach a bolt to the mount base.
Step 14: Under the mount base, slip a rubber washer onto each bolt.
As you move the mount base over the holes you drilled in the deck, you should hold the washers in position with your fingers.Place the washers over the holes if it's too difficult.
Step 15: Place the base over the drilled holes.
Step 16: The base rests against the deck.
You'll need to add more rubber washers under the bolts if it doesn't.The motor can be raised onto the deck and locked down without binding if the base is evenly rested.
Step 17: Attach the steel washer and retaining nut to the bolts.
To secure the base, tighten the nuts.
Step 18: The motor assembly needs to be secured.
The water level needs to be at least 5 inches below the bow-mounted trolling motor to allow for rough water.A depth of 12 inches (30 cm) is recommended if you fish from a standing position.