How To Replace the Combustion Chamber of an Oil Furnace
The chamber of the oil fired furnace will eventually collapse and need to be replaced.An oil burner that is locked out and manually reset can flood the chamber with heating oil.The chamber would need to be replaced.If your oil service company performs this job, it can cost you hundreds of dollars.For a few hours of your time and a chamber replacement kit, you can do this on your own.The procedure for most other residential furnaces is the same as the instructions for the Weil Mclain Gold furnace.Follow the instructions in your chamber kit.
Step 1: Don't use the power.
The service switch is designed for service personnel to make sure the power stays off while they are working on the equipment.The switch has a bright red wall plate with the words "OIL BURNER EMERGENCY SWITCH" written on it.Shut off the power if you can't locate the service switch.It is necessary to prevent the furnace from starting.If the furnace is being serviced, place a note on the electrical panel explaining that the circuit is off.Professionals use the term "Lock Out / Tag Out" when working on equipment because they affix a handle lock and tag on the breaker or panel cover.There is a test to verify power is off.Shut off the fuel supply between the outlet of the tank and the filter.
Step 2: Allow the furnace to cool down.
If you don't allow enough time for the furnace to cool down, there is a risk of injury from burns.
Step 3: The opening of the furnace door can be interfered with by clear cables and power lines.
The oil burner is supported through a door in most modern furnaces.Before starting the job, take a photo with your phone or camera.This will help you remember how to connect the lines.Shut off the oil supply valve before the point of disconnection if the fuel line must be removed.The easiest way to unbolt the fuel pump cover is from the furnace motor.While trying not to disturb the fuel lines, gently move it out of the way.The chances of disrupting the mating surfaces between the flared ends of the lines and compression fittings are mitigated by this.Remove and have a replacement ready to install.
Step 4: Allow the door to open by unbolting or releasing it.
A bolt or nut that squeezes the door seal against the furnace opening is used to maintain the gas-tight seal.Don't disturb it if it's undamaged and you're not interested in replacing it.
Step 5: Control the airborne fibers.
Personal protective equipment consists of safety glasses, long sleeve shirt, protective gloves and mask to prevent inhaling fibers and getting them in your skin.The inside of the chamber can be wet with water.It will be easier for a vacuum to pick up the debris in the next step because of this.
Step 6: There are loose particles in the chamber.
The soot, rust and other debris should be removed from the floor and walls of the chamber.If the inside hasn't been wet down in the previous step, a soot vacuum is recommended.A standard household vacuum is not suitable for this work due to the very small dry particles being able to pass through the filter media or bag.A shop vacuum will do if it has been wet.
Step 7: The trash bag should be placed under the opening of the furnace.
Pull the preformed lining from the rear wall and the blanket material out of the chamber.To remove the old lining material, use a screw driver and a whisk broom and sweep all the pieces into the garbage bag.The steel surfaces should be cleaned with a wire brush.Do not wedge screwdrivers or similar objects between boiler sections.All surfaces should be vacuumed once again.
Step 8: The preformed door has a lining on it.
The preformed liner should be removed because of a small blanket behind it.The area should be cleaned the same way as the inside of the chamber.
Step 9: The inside edge of the door has a rope seal around it.
If the seal is undamaged and you don't want to replace it, you may skip this step.To clean this area, you need a screwdriver, wire brush, and broom.Put all the debris in the trash bag.Remove the bag from the work area.
Step 10: As per instructions provided, locate and install the preformed rear wall liner.
You may have to tip it to get it into the right position.Make sure that it is all the way back against the wall by pressing with your palms.
Step 11: The chamber floor has a blanket on it.
Lay the blanket inside the chamber.If you want to extend the blanket out of the chamber, put it against the rear wall liner.The outside edge of the chamber is marked by a blanket.The sides of the chamber wall should be arranged the same way.You can place the blanket in the same position later if you mark it on the wall.
Step 12: Cut the blanket.
To fit the chamber according to your measurements, use a straight edge and razor knife.
Step 13: Water glass can be applied.
The water glass is sticky and can be heated.Spread the water glass on the chamber floor with gloves.The rest of the water glass should be saved so that the rope seal can be secured in the later step.The front of the chamber will leak if you don't replace the seal rope and use more water glass than needed.
Step 14: The blanket is ready to be put on the floor.
Above the water glass covered surfaces, hold the blanket inside and above the chamber floor.The marks should be on the blanket and the floor.Press it into place when you are satisfied with the position.
Step 15: The door blanket should be installed around the burner opening.
Step 16: Slowly work the liner into the door with your hands.
Paper strips are used to help it slide over the rough edges of the door.They should be used to prevent cracking or breaking of the liner when pressing to fit.When the burner opening is flush with the liner, or as indicated in the instructions that accompany your liner kit, it is considered to be in position.
Step 17: The cleaned rope seal recess of the door has a few drops of water glass in it.
If you did not remove the undamaged rope seal in a previous step, this step should be skipped.Remove the paper backing from the seal rope and press it into the recess.Start at the top of the door with the seal rope.All the way around both sides of the door, press the rope seal into the recess.They can overlap in the middle of the door if they cut the rope seal.
Step 18: Re-establishing the gas-tight seal is accomplished by closing the door and securing it with a bolt or nut.
Step 19: Reconnection of fuel lines, pump and filter lines and power lines.
If you have to, try not to move the fuel lines any more than necessary to avoid disturbing the mating surfaces between the flared ends of the lines.Excess oil can be wiped away from lines, fitting and floor.
Step 20: All fuel shut off valves should be open.
Make sure to check for oil leaks at all the fittings.
Step 21: To cause the burner to start, turn on power and increase the thermostat temperature.
Run for at least 15 minutes to cure water glass.The oil pump may need to be primed if the burner doesn't start.The procedure can be found here.
Step 22: Evidence of leaking fuel oil can be found on the floor and fuel lines.