How to Side post car battery cable bolt repair if stripped, how do you fix it, side post battery terminal fix?
The car wouldn't start when I tried to start it about 2 weeks ago.After seeing it many times, I thought to check the battery cables and see if the positive was still there.The car started fine after I tightened it down.The same thing happened a few days after that.I had a seizure a few days after that, but I was driving fine.After the lights went out, my speedo went all the way to 140 and back to 20 and my fuel mileage was reset.I investigated the battery cable after that.There is nothing wrong with the battery cable.Is there a way to fix this without a new battery?With Christmas around the corner, I don't want to buy a new battery if it's old enough to not be covered under warranty.I have to check/tighten the cable every time I go somewhere, it's getting tiring.
Any suggestions?Is it possible to thread the terminal hole out and use a bigger bolt on the cable?
There is no permanent fix for a stripped side terminal battery, just for the sake of it, you could try a new post bolt.I have a wrench for side terminal batteries.
Why don't you go to your local store for a repair?Someone hasn't marketed a problem like this.You will get to next summer if you have a decent kludge.I'm thinking of an oversize bolt with a standard terminal and threads for the existing battery cable and bolt.
You should be very careful with what you do.When a dealer tech cracked the case internally to the battery and allowed a slow acid leak into the cable, it was the beginning of the end for my original battery cable.
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I would buy a new bolt first.It was the threads on the bolt that wore down.If the new bolt doesn't work, I would use a blue threadlocker on the threads.Don't tighten it, just snug it down.The blue threadlocker is easier to break than the red one.
I would buy a new bolt first.It was the threads on the bolt that wore down.If the new bolt doesn't work, I would use a blue threadlocker on the threads.Don't tighten it, just snug it down.The blue threadlocker is easier to break than the red one.
I also have that on the battery bolt.I replaced my bolt when I had battery issues.It was less than $5.If the hole is stripped, put a few toothpicks in it.You might want to put a picture wire next to the bolt in this case.The contact between the bolt and battery will be sung up.Make sure you use a soft wire.I think solder is too soft to get the connection tight.You need a flexible wire.If the wire is too thick, you can thin it out with a hammer.Good luck.
A large percentage of side terminal battery replacements are the result of someone not properly fastening the cable bolt to the battery terminal.Either ignorant or not caring.
I would go with a larger bolt.If you do the Winterset trick, I would use solder or lead instead of wood.You could try a helicoil.No reason that shouldn't work.
Thanks for the ideas!I think I'll give the wire idea a try first since it's something I have on hand.I have done the toothpick thing many times and never thought of it.
I'm guilty.Being the only one who has done anything to it in the last year, I guess that would be my mistake.I've always been PFT'd it.I know now.
I'll wrap a wire in there if it's more than 20 degrees tomorrow.I will let you know how that goes.
Thanks for the ideas!I think I'll give the wire idea a try first since it's something I have on hand.I have done the toothpick thing many times and never thought of it.
I'm guilty.Being the only one who has done anything to it in the last year, I guess that would be my mistake.I've always been PFT'd it.I know now.
I'll wrap a wire in there if it's more than 20 degrees tomorrow.I will let you know how that goes.
It is possible to strip the threads and force the threaded insert out of the battery lead bulk.A small 8mm wrench is used for battery terminal bolts.
There is a Torque value for every bolt on the car, but no one measures most of them.Only the ones that are critical.
I will use a Torque wrench on any bolt into aluminum threads that hold a gasket that seals liquid oil or vacuum.When I cracked an NGK spark plug in a Honda 5750, I thought I had stropped the thread.I'm not afraid to use the snap-over wrench that I have now.
Click here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" read your OBD codes, and for my personal page to download my list of codes in an excel file.
Don't get upset over the issue.If a previous owner installed the replacement battery, there is no way to know what happened to the battery terminals before you bought the car.
I didn't think the battery was included in the list of bolts for the car.I'm used to batteries with a post terminal that doesn't have a major issue.Next time, I will know better.
The terminal was wrapped up earlier.I used a heavy gauge piece of copper speaker wire to figure out a few small wires.I wrapped the rubber coating around the end of the bolt before threading it back on.I took apart the cables and cleaned them as well.It has held all day after I Torqued it to 11 ft/lbs.I'd been having to tighten it a few times a day, but it seems like it might be ok now.Before this issue started, the voltage held at a steady 14.3 volts while running.It averaged 13 since this started.
I am grateful for the help!I hope this fix holds on until I can afford a new battery.
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