One of the biggest complaints people have in a multi-family dwelling is neighbor noise.If you're reading this article, chances are you aren't on good terms with the neighbors upstairs.If you want to get the best results, you need to take out the existing drywall and install a multi-stage setup.Both methods can be accomplished on a do-it-yourself project.
Step 1: Understand this method.
This approach is easy to install and moderately effective.6 to 9 "STC points" will be added to reduce loud conversations to indistinguishable speech or murmurs.Decouple the ceiling if you want to block music or other loud noises.The decoupling method can be used for concrete ceilings.
Step 2: If necessary, install insulation.
Look for insulation by drilling a hole in the ceiling.If no one is present, blow in medium density insulation.You won't need to repair the holes after you install new drywall.If there is any old insulation, don't install new insulation.You won't be able to blow in new insulation evenly if you have old insulation.Don't use foam insulation and expensive products.These can make low density vibrations worse.
Step 3: The compound should be applied to a new sheet of wood.
"Green Glue" is a compound that reduces the amount of vibration between the two layers of material.It should be applied to the back of a new sheet of drywall.Extra mass blocks sound and is recommended for 58" drywall.If the existing drywall is 58" thick, choose 12" sheets for the new layer.Two different thicknesses will block more sound.Pre-dampened drywall is not the same as what you could make yourself.
Step 4: The drywall should be installed.
Attach the wallboard to the ceiling.The perimeter should be kept as small as possible.
Step 5: All gaps should be filled with acoustical caulk.
A lot of noise can be made through a narrow gap.Make sure the caulk is suitable for use on your materials by reading the label carefully.Do you have the ability to paint over the caulk?Make sure the color matches the ceiling if not.Fire-resistant caulk can be used to prevent the spread of fire.It is possible that this is required by your local building code.
Step 6: The compound needs to dry.
The compound is a major part of the installation.It may take ten days or more for the compound to cure and reach its final soundproofing qualities.The compound label has a specific time frame.
Step 7: If necessary, add an additional layer.
If the process is still not ideal, consider repeating it.A third layer of compound can make a big difference.Another layer is unlikely to help if the room is not noticeably more soundproof.It is possible to soundproof the walls or treat the ceilings.
Step 8: The ceiling should be removed.
The ceiling joists are in direct contact with the current drywall.This makes it possible for sound from the floor above to pass through the joists.A new ceiling can be installed with an air gap between it and the floor above.Adding extra drywall makes the space soundproof.
Step 9: The floor above should be reinforced.
It is very effective at reducing the sound of conversation and high-pitched noises, but it can make low frequencies sound louder.To get the best of both worlds, apply a new sheet of thick drywall and screw it onto the subfloor below.Detailed instructions can be found above.Don't use screws that break through the floor above.If you want to reinforce the new ceiling with a second layer, complete the rest of the method first.If extreme soundproofing is required, reinforce both ends.
Step 10: The ceiling joists have insulation between them.
Standard R19 fiberglass insulation is as good as the more expensive "acoustic" insulation.If you want to avoid over-compression, fill the gaps between the joists.Cotton insulates well.It is possible to usecellulose, mineral fiber, or polyester alternatives.Do not use foam insulation.Before you insulate, install the floating ceiling joist approach.
Step 11: Consideration should be given to floating ceiling joists.
If the ceiling space is taken up by ductwork, this method may not be feasible.If you want to do this, you have to install a new joist between the ceiling joists.The new joists should be further down than the original ones.The inside layer of a decoupled wall is where the floating joist should rest.There is an air gap between the inside of the wall and the outside.You don't need to follow the rest of the instructions if you choose this approach.Then fill in the perimeter with acoustic caulk.
Step 12: Purchase the hat channel.
The installation of afurring channel and sound clips is less effective than floating joists.If you want the best sound, choose a furring channel marked "087F125-18" or confirm that it meets the specifications: 78" (22.2mm) depth, 25 gauge, hemmed long edge.Twenty gauge channels are more likely to be worse for soundproofing.The resilient channel is designed for noise reduction.It's difficult to know if resilient channel will work in North America.Before purchasing, read customer reviews.
Step 13: The hat channel should be installed parallel to the joists.
The channels should be installed no bigger than 61 cm apart and placed within 6 cm of the wall.If there is a vent in the ceiling, flush the channel against the frame of the vent.On either side of the vent, place additional short lengths of channel.If the channel isn't long enough to reach across the ceiling, overlap channel lengths by at least 6 inches and screw together.Don't put sound clips on areas that are already there.If you plan to support a triple layer of drywall, place the channels within 16 feet of each other.
Step 14: Attach resilient sound clips.
Hat channel alone is not very effective.Place clips around the perimeter of the ceiling, within 15 cm of each wall, through the hat channel.The first channel has sound clips that are 48 cm apart.If you want to get the best results, shift the next row's sound clip placement by 16" and fill it out.The shift should be repeated for each row.To save money, arrange clips in a grid pattern, using the same positioning as the first channel.You can see the instructions for fastening your clip product.It's a good idea to avoid over-tightening.
Step 15: The channel has gypsum over it.
For maximum strength, install drywall sections that are parallel to the channels.Gaps around the perimeter can be filled with acoustic caulk.Adding a second layer of drywall is recommended if you did not reinforce the subfloor.