How to test a motorcycle stator is one of the topics in the PDF Testing The Stator, a Pictorial Guide.
A new stator can cost hundreds of dollars.Your engine will run poorly if you don't have a good stator.The solution uses a battery to power the system.Everything can be purchased for less than $50.It will work on all contact point engines.There is a guide for contact breaker systems.If you have a CDI part of your system, this system will replace it with a more traditional one.I came up with this system when the spark plug on my Honda was not strong enough to power it.I didn't want to buy a used one because the one on my model was known for being weak and prone to failure.The engine won't run if there is no spark in the stator coil.A weak spark can cause the engine to miss or run poorly.As the engine warms up, symptoms get worse.
The coil needs to be heavy duty.I had tried using two universal coils for small engines.They blew up from the heat.They're not designed for a continuous 12 volts.The canister type ignition coil designed for cars works well for this application and doesn't get hot or blow up.I bought this one off of Amazon.http://www.amazon.com/OEM-5195-Ignition-Coil/dp/B000CSW79C/refThe lead acid is used in car batteries.They sell small ones for use in a variety of things.I bought a generic one on Amazon.There is a Sealed-Lead-Batteries/dp/B0009GIKNE on Amazon.The price is 100.Capacitors that are intended for ignition systems will work.I don't know what the technical specification is.I used the one that was part of the original system on my dirt bike.The Resistor protects the ignition coil from getting too much power.The neighborhood of 100 watt of power is where you can use a 2 ohm Resistor.I bought a generic one for $5 off eBay.You can use the one that came with your engine as long as it's not the kind you have to hold down.I bought a $5 switch from home depot because my dirt bike had a hold down style.They sell a universal one for most small engines.I got mine for $10 on Amazon.I used 18 gauge insulated magnet wire.I would sand the insulation off the ends and attach alligator clips if I had to.If you want to solder all connections without clips or buy ready to use wires, that's up to you.This is used to measure resistance and continuity.It is helpful to check to make sure everything is wired correctly.These are inexpensive and can be used around the house.
The system's wiring is flexible.The space available on your machine is the most important factor in determining the series order of the pieces.I recommend fastening the components first, then wiring them together in the most convenient way.The only thing that needs to be done is the wiring between the two terminals of the ignition coil.You can read the next page for an explanation of how to wire the system to the engine.The ignition coil/capacitor combo which is wired in parallel is the exception.I made the diagram in paint.I wanted to use a platform that would let me use pictures instead of diagrams, which is something not everyone is familiar with.There are two wires coming out of the two primary terminals on the ignition coil.The spark plug gets its power from the raised center terminal.The spark plug wire will connect here.It's the positive terminal of the secondary coil for electronics people.The negative terminal is shared between the primary and secondary coil.
Further explanation is needed to explain how to wire the "engine" in series with everything else.The contact breaker system is the only reason the wiring passes through the engine.The spark plug can be triggered by the contact breaker, which is a switch inside the flywheel.The engine isn't making any power for the system.Attaching the negative wire to the engine is easy.Any part of the engine assembly can be connected to this wire.The metal parts of the engine make up one large electric terminal because of electrical contact with each other.The wire should attach something secure, like a cooling fin, head bolt, or crankcase.Wrap this wire around a bolt and tighten it.I recommend sanding the place you choose because it should be free of paint and debris.The harder part is attaching the red wire to the engine.The wire needs to be connected to the contact breaker.The steps to gain access are listed here.Depending on the model, this may be the left or right cover.The left side cover on my honda xr did not hold back the oil.The flywheel needs to be removed.The nut must be locked in place if you want to remove it.A special tool can be used to lock it in place.You can either remove the spark plug or rope it down into the cylinder.You can remove the nut if there is enough material to lock against the head.It is a regular threaded nut.Make sure that you can remove whatever you fed into the cylinder and not leave any debris behind.The flywheel needs to be pulled off.It is almost impossible to remove the flywheel by hand even after the nut has been removed.It's risky to use pry tools, so I recommend using a special universal tool.There is a hole in the center of the flywheel.To tighten it, turn it clockwise.Simply tighten the bolt on the tool and it will force the flywheel off.
You should see something similar to the first picture when the flywheel is off.The crankshaft has a set of copper coils surrounding it.The number of bikes varies.I had 2.If you remove the stator, the lighting system won't work.I won't be explaining how to wire the lights up to the battery.If you wanted to use a hybrid approach, you would have to figure it out on your own and rewire the stator after you disconnected it from the ignition.The whole stator was removed to make things easier.The contact breaker points are what we need now that the flywheel is gone.There is a contact breaker assembly in the second picture.The engine's contact breaker is the third.This is what your contact breaker points will look like.Now for the last wire.There is a red wire coming from the engine in the diagram.We need a wire to connect the new one to the breaker points.You have to remove the old wire and put it in the new system.If you don't already have a wire there, look for the annotations to the second picture.You need to maximize the picture in order to see the annotations.The nut is used to secure the wire.If you put this wire in the wrong place, it will contact the first wire and cause the system to fail.The spark will not fire if the contact breaker is not switched on.You need to secure this wire in the right place.Feed the last wire out of the engine if you connect correctly.You should route it in a way that avoids moving parts.There is a hole in the side cover.The side cover should be replaced with the wire routed out of the way.
After mounting the various parts to your system, I recommend wiring them together.The ignition coil and theCapacitor need to be close to each other.Hot glue can be used to secure components and wiring.Hot glue from a gun is very strong and useful.First, clean the surfaces with acetone or rubbing alcohol, then let them dry.You have to take the cleaning step.This method will fail if there is a tiny bit of dirt.You will have a strong bond if done right.If you make a mistake, rubbing alcohol can remove hardened hot glue.Once everything is confirmed working and wired correctly, put a small amount of solder at every connection.This will prevent the wiring from coming apart, as well as prevent it from losing electrical contact.Imagine having something small come apart while using your machine, causing the whole system to fail, and having to go through every little piece to find the problem.I put the components in the front of the frame on my Honda.I wove the wires back down to the other elements after glueing the switch near the kill switch on the handlebars.The battery was the most difficult to mount.I screwed the wood to the front fender after hot glueing the battery to a piece of wood.In this arrangement, the battery is quite secure.Well done!You should be ready to rock and roll with your new high power ignition system if you have made it to this point.If you don't turn the switch off, the battery will drain.
It is almost certain that there is an open circuit if the system isn't working.To test for this, you need to use the resistance setting on your ohmmeter/multimeter.Attach the leads to the wires in series with the circuit you are testing.The wires leading up to the battery should be detached so they can be used as test points.A broken circuit is indicated by a reading of 1 on the display.The circuit is continuous or closed if the resistance value is displayed.The resistance on this circuit should be around 5 ohms.If you find that your system is open, you need to make sure the switch is on.If this doesn't work, try turning the engine over to make sure the contact breakers are in the closed position.The contact breaker is a switch that is controlled by the position of the flywheel.The contact breaker switch can be turned off at least once per cycle.You need to be sure that both switches are closed.Take your test leads around one branch of the system.Let's say you're using a battery wire.Your problem lies in that branch if that register as an open circuit.With the wire's insulation completely removed at the contact points, check to make sure connections are secure.Check the terminals of components in a bad branch if you have a burnt out component.This doesn't work for theCapacitor which should register as an open circuit across its terminals.The branch should be expanded.Let's say the battery wire goes to the coil.The process is repeated until you find an open circuit branch.The problem lies in the most recent addition to the branch and can be fixed.The contact breaker is a less likely cause of a system failure.The spark plug won't fire if the whole system is getting a good reading from the meter.Slowly turn the engine over if the meter is hooked up to the whole system.When the contact breaker switch opens, the reading must register for a brief time.The spark plug is triggered by the opening of the contact breaker switch.There is a problem with the contact breaker points if the reading fails to register a discontinuity.A mechanical issue with the contact breaker points can be the reason for this.A short circuit could cause the system to fail.If given a chance to use a better conductor, electricity will always take the easiest path.Look for places where foreign materials might be resting.If uninsulated wiring is in contact with the frame, it will short circuit.
There are many ways to charge the battery.1.Purchase a charging device.This is the easiest and fastest method, but it will cost you $30 to buy a unit, and they range from a small box to a suitcase.2.You can use your car.The diagram shows how to wire the battery to the car battery.The car battery should not drain to a harmful level if the battery you're charging is less than the one in the car.The car's battery will be fully charged the next time you run it.If you are concerned about draining the car's battery too far, you can run the vehicle during the process, in which case the alternator will be the power source of the charge.If you're like me and don't want to run the car just to charge a battery, you could put the battery under the hood and leave it there as you drive.The car's battery won't be providing the charge, it will be the alternator.3.It's simple to build a charger.This method requires a power transformer from an appliance you don't use anymore.I have a lot of these things from old electronics that are long gone.You can buy them from thrift shops or used electronics stores.These things cost less than 5 bucks a pop.It needs to be rated for 15 Watts of power.Smaller lead acid batteries have a slightly higher output voltage than car batteries due to a variation in construction.I think they can output at least 13 Volts.The numbers in the paragraph are incorrect for smaller lead acid batteries.The problem arose when my transformer was unable to produce the required charge current of 1.0 Amps.I don't know the safe range of charging voltages for this particular construction of battery so it will require some further testing, but it is higher than the previous range.If you have any suggestions, please submit them in the comments.It is possible to charge the battery in a reasonable amount of time.If the battery is left charging indefinitely, I don't know if the voltage is high enough to over charge it.The guides for regular 12 volt batteries don't apply because the smaller ones are a different construction that produce 13-14 volts, so I have no reference range for charger voltages.If you're worried about overcharging, you can take the charge off after a while.Near the beginning, most of the charging is done.If you want to check the status, you can use an ammeter.It's time to stop when the amperage drops.The meter should be in the 10 Amp range.This setting requires the lead to be moved to a different port.I'm using a universal laptop charger with the end prepared the same way as the wall chargers.If you want to charge your laptop, you'll have to pay 10 bucks for a regular wall charge.I will be removing obsolete material from this page in a few weeks.char ging.The battery will charge, but not overcharge.The risk of damaging the battery is higher if you use a higher voltage charger.If you plan on charging in a garage or somewhere cold, you should read this guide as it will show you how to make the charging safe and effective.com/SLRemove the insulation so alligator clips can be put on.You need to figure out which lead is positive or negative once you have the clips on.Attach the leads of the multimeter to the alligator clips on your power source by using the voltmeter function.We're concerned about the sign here, because the voltage readout should be whatever you are using.If the reading's sign is positive, the leads on the charger correspond to the test leads that the meter is attached to.If the reading is negative, the alligator clip attached to the red test lead is positive, and the black one is not.Make sure the test leads are set up correctly.The results will be wrong if they are plugged in in the wrong places.You will be doing this again if you don't label which lead.To charge your battery, clip the positive clip to the negative terminal.The price is right and this method may take awhile.I used a transformer that I found in my basement.
5 years ago.
The reason you blew those two small engine coils is because they are not designed for constant current draw and the large amount of current of the auto type canister coil.If the coil you have is the internal resister type, you don't need a 2 ohm resisters.You need to know.You may not have a spark if you put the 2 ohm in the circuit.The resister may burn up if you leave it off the coil.
1 year ago
Is it cheaper to just order the cheap Chinese parts you could order almost every part you need for like 15 bucks to 25 bucks and that comes with a wiring harness and a box kill switch?
7 weeks ago.
I know this reply is a year old, but I have a 1981 xr 100 and it's a points system, what can I do with it?I can't find a 92 or newer backing plate.
The coil is designed for continuous 12V.It's usually in stock in the vintage tractor section.
Answer a year ago.
Will it hurt it if you change A 8 Coil O to A10 and call magnesia on a 150 CC?
5 years ago
How long can you ride between rides?I already have a deepcycle battery and it's designed to resist big charge variations.I don't know if I should bring a power pack with me on long rides.
1 year ago
3 years ago
I had a problem wiring theCapacitor, it only had one outlet for wireing.I get power to the spark plug wire but no spark after I wired everything.I need someone to help me with this.
1 year ago
2 years ago.
2 years ago.
To create a spark in your cylinder, you need to connect the wire inside the stator case.I am trying this on a Yamaha.Please.Someone can help.The price is more than half a million dollars.
5 years ago.
4 years ago
5 years ago
The bike you show in your pictures is a 93 suzuki ts200.