I have a goodman furnace with a blinking light.
Dan has been in the industry for 23 years and has experience in everything from installation to sales and distribution.
The circuit board of today's furnaces has an LEDs light mounted to it.You can find it in the dark.It helps you understand what your furnace is doing.
If you don't speak the language of your furnace, you're not bonding with it as you should.
This article will show you how to read the light codes, interpret them, and understand what your furnace problem is.I will give you a look at my article for easy to understand, but more in-depth help with your issue.
I will show you how to understand the light and identify the code it gives you.I will give advice based on the type of code you have.Most furnace brands are covered in this article.
You have probably heard of the code.The dash and dot system is used by your furnace.It is not giving you the letters of words.It tells you a number that is a code for a specific problem that you can look up.
If it is a single digit, it will repeat the dot pattern over and over with short pauses.This is a "3."
If it is a double digit number, it will use a dot, pause, dash, and pause pattern to guide you on your way...You understand the idea.This would be a number 33.
Each furnace with this feature will have a code chart for you to refer to.You can usually find this chart on the furnace compartment doors.Refer to your owner's manual for some.Here is a list of major furnace brands.
Call a supplier or the manufacturer if you cannot find it online.If you want to speed up your search, you should have your make and model ready.
It is time to see what the problem is after you have gotten the code and referred to the chart.It takes more knowledge to do that.
This light is not a miracle worker.The job of it is to point out the source of the problem.It is up to you to take it.
The following will show you where to look and what you should be looking for.
You can either blow the fuse on the circuit board or check your breakers to see if the light is on.
The good news is that these are all simple furnace problems that can be fixed.You would not believe how often a fuses can blow.For this reason, I keep a few 3 Amp fuses around.If you are attempting your own repairs, you may just blow one of these and need one in a hurry.These are the ones you need.
This is a good thing if your furnace light is on.If you are reading this article, carry on as usual.
Some people will be confused by the "blower running after power up" code.It means that things are okay if you get this code.
If your furnace has just been installed, or if you have just lost power, the blower will fire up.
This is a sort of system check or stretching exercise before it gets to work.Give it some time.It will follow your thermostat's instructions after it warms up.
The service switch or the breaker can be used to reset the furnace.Leave it off for 30 seconds and then turn it on again.The unit will try to restart if this clears the board.
Before you cut the power, be sure to get the code from the furnace.Once the unit is powered down, this code will be lost.If you are lucky, the unit will run after you restart it.If luck is on your side, you might have heat again, at least for the time being.
The burner assembly area is where your problem will be if you get a code about gas or flame proving failure.
It is most likely that the ignitor is bad or the flame sensor is dirty.It's a very common issue.I wrote an article about what to do if the flame sensor is bad, if you are getting a code like this.
There are times when the gas valve is malfunctioning.You know to watch that area to see what happens when it tries to start again.
It is easy to detect and repair ignitors and flame sensors.A professional should be called for gas valve problems that are above most homeowner's experience level.
The area of your furnace shown above is where the code refers to pressure and inducer related issues.
There is a chimney connection to the inducer housing and pressure switches that look like flying saucers.
The pressure switch is on the right of the inducer.
These little guys are being talked about by codes referring to high limit or roll out switches.They are located in various places on the furnace and can detect heat or overheating.
Older models and switches can be used to reset the Fan Limit or High Limit switch.
The heat exchanger compartment has a high limit switch.If the exchanger cabinet gets too hot, it will communicate with the fan to turn on and off.There is only one of these.
Roll out switches are used for where heat switches should not be.If the flames in the furnace were to shoot out the wrong way, the roll out switch would shut down the unit.
In other places, like mounted to the side of the blower, the roll out switch would shut down the fan motor if it overheated.This could be from a dirty filter, lack of air movement caused by a motor that isn't running, or something else.
A small tin can or 9V battery has a kick start from a capacitor.It is likely that you have a problem if the top of it pops up.The air conditioner uses the same thing.
The roll out switch senses heat and shuts down the unit for safety.
Most units have a code for "lockout".This means what it sounds like.Everything is locked up.
When a furnace tries to fire multiple times and fails, it's called a Lockout.As a default, it will run the blower for a few seconds.I explained how to handle the situation if needed.
It is important to remember that working on a furnace can be dangerous and if you do not know what you are doing, you can cause further damage to the furnace.
When you have to call a professional to explain how you tried to fix your furnace, it is never a good thing.It is easy for a technician to see when someone has been tinkering with things out of their wheelhouse.
You should always put your safety first.Enjoy fixing the things that you can but know when it's time to call it quits.
The article is correct to the best of the author's knowledge.Content is for entertainment purposes only and does not substitute for professional advice in business, financial, legal, or technical matters.
I have a g4ouh-48b-090-07 Lennox furnace and it's working well.I need the heater to work now that it is getting cold.The board is lighting up, but my inducer motor is not on, and I hear a clicking sound.I get an error code that says my pressure switch is malfunctioning.My two lights are on, but my one is off.What can I do?Is the inducer motor bad or is it the pressure switch?
Since the inducer is not even starting, it may be the issue.This could help make the determination.Home improvement on Hubpages.com
I am getting a pressure draft safeguard, Aux limit, or blocked vent switch code.I did not see this code in your article.
You could have a bad inducer fan or a blocked chimney if the pressure switch is bad.These are the most common causes, but not a definitive answer.
I have a Payne furnace.We replaced the pressure switch because it was blinking a code.It worked for eight hours, and then it started blinking again.The furnace starts and runs for a while, then stops and restarts.What should I do next?
If the flue, inducer fan, and pressure switch hose are all free from obstruction, then I'm pretty sure it's the circuit board, but I can't be certain.
Why would my furnace start blowing cold air?There is a small green light that flashes three times today.
The light will give you a code that matches the code chart and will tell you what part failed or failed to read what it was supposed to.Upon failure, the blower is a default feature.The blower is running.
When you turn on the hot water at the sink, it may be because the cold air is in the ducts.
The furnace will only stay on for a short time.I tried a different flame sensor after cleaning it.Theexhaust and blower fan seem to work normally, and there are no codes.Any suggestions?
I can't say for sure, but it could be a high limit switch.If the limit doesn't work, call a tech.
I have a high efficiency furnace.The red light flashes four times.Pushed the reset buttons.It won't light when power is on and it cycles 4 times.No heat on igniter.Would the igniter be shot or something else that wouldn't let it heat up?
Check the hot surface igniter for any cracks that look like white streaks.It would help determine if it is bad.It doesn't hurt to have a spare on hand since they often will go bad sooner or later.
I apologize.I don't know all of the codes.Try to find out if there is an owners manual for your model.The code chart needs to be on the furnace.
I have a furnace that will run all day until nighttime.The unit will have to be reset after that.I don't know how to read the flashing lights.The furnace will run for a couple of hours if I reset it.I had the furnace cleaned two weeks ago.What should I do?
There should be a chart on your unit to help explain the codes meaning, as the flashes read like Morse code.I can't offer a great recommendation without that.
The Carrier furnace is four years old and has stopped heating.The drain trap next to the inducer motor was filthy but not blocked.I blew the pressure valve to see if it was working.I can hear it open and close.The igniter never lit up when I started the heat again.The yellow light blinks for a few minutes.Do you think I damaged the pressure valve?
It could have been damaged before.It takes very little to push it too far when blowing in or sucking on a pressure vale.Too much can damage it, and it doesn't take much to pop those in and out.It is likely the problem if the inducer is running and you do not hear the switch.The igniter is probably bad if you hear the switch click.Both parts are cheap and easy to swap out.
My furnace light is green when off and red when running.I have gone through 2 ignitors in 6 months and the furnace runs fine when this light is on.
My high efficient lennox furnace has a black box on the right side that holds water/condensation, not draining properly even though it's connected to a3/4 inch drain and runs outside the house to drain, it fills with water and the furnace shuts down until you open up the
I need to change the inducer motor of my Intertherm furnace, but I don't know if I can do it myself.
Someone else had the same issue after reading your post online.The condensation trap was not working.I had the same thing, removed and cleaned the condensator trap.
The blower motor was turning slowly, I have a York forced air furnace.I got a code 33 from the new blower motor when I put it in.The furnace will run for 10 to 15 minutes, then it will switch to a 13 and shut down for three hours.Shut it off and turn it back on.
If you have a flame roll out issue that needs to be fixed or a bad part that is giving a false open, I don't know if the switch is doing it's job.If you want to see if the unit is actually doing its job, you can replace it with a cheaper one.
I have a Guardian furnace and have to over ride my roll-out switch to get the burner to start.I can hold down the switch to restart the burner.Is this normal or something else causing it?I have 5 blinking light codes when it is not running.
I would expect a discount.Yes.A company will usually give a break on adjoining units being done at the same time because there will be things that they can do all at once, like loading and unloading tools and materials.While they may give a break, I wouldn't let it affect my decision on when and what to do as it will likely be a lot of money.A small amount of money could be split between you.I don't know a lot about where you are and what the layout of the job is specifically but I will tell you to choose your installer wisely.If it is installed wrong, it will not work properly and you will want them to back up their work.I hope this helps.
I own a 1300 square foot condo.There is a forced air gas furnace.I want to replace the furnace with a new, high end, more efficient combo furnace and air conditioner.My unit is on the top floor with direct flat roof accessibility and I have obtained permission from the board for this project and my duct work is in excellent condition.Do you have any ideas?
We can arrange a discount on the purchase and installation of these units if there are two other people in the building that want the same thing.What type of discount should I expect?
I am thankful for your sharing this with me.Pay it forward!We all know what other people can use.
Thank you, Dan.When I was trying to find out what was wrong with my furnace, I came across your article.I could fix it myself thanks to your explanation.Thanks again and greetings from Argentina.
First, I would check for flue blockage, inducer fan function, and pressure switch.I would recommend a technician.
I need someone to tell me what to do.The furnace is on.The igniter glows if the furnace doesn't ignite, but nothing happens after that.
If the light is a dirty flame sensor, it can be cleaned rather easily.I have an article that can help you try that and see if it resolves your problem.I would need a lot more information to offer any advice, but keep in mind that I am here and you are there.The only thing I can do is tell you what I would check next and that it usually requires electrical testing to be confident in the resolution.Thank you for reading.
I know it's because of a dirty flame sensor, but I cleaned my filter yesterday and the light is blinking again, so I don't know what that means.
If you want to know what the flash codes mean, there should be a code chart on the furnace.I don't know them because they are not the same and vary by brand.Try to find the code meanings by searching for your model number on the internet.The codes can lead you to failure.Technical knowledge is needed to figure out why that was the point of failure.
The goodman furnace has red lights on it.It is cold in the house and the thermostat is switched to 23, what do I do before calling on the guys??
The inducer fan is tied to the chimney.It could be a seal because on the high efficiency units the water is supposed to drain to the internal trap.If this is a new issue, it is likely the problem.I think there is something wrong with the flue installation if it has always done this.My guess is the wrong size or pitch.
Someone told me that the seal around the fan might be bad.?
I took the panel off because my furnace won't shut off, but what do I do now?
It is possible since you are getting a high reading but there is a problem with the board.Thank you for reading.
The bryant furnace shows a code of 2 slow flash then 4 fast flash 24 on a chart and a short circuit open.Does this mean to replace the transformer?
My furnace has a led light that is out.I have checked for tripped circuit breakers and found nothing.The control module does not have a fuse.I cannot find the problem with my furnace that is not getting power.I need some suggestions.
There was a problem with the condensate trap.It appears that the problem has been solved by cleaning it.
I have intermittent heating issues.The igniter works for 30 seconds, then the flame goes out.The gas valve sounds like it opens and closes a lot.The exhaust fan is moving air and water.I disconnected the exhaust pipe from the fan to see if it was really blowing.There is a lot of water in the exhaust, which causes my hand to get wet before the unit starts to heat.Is this normal?TUX080C94D2.There are 3 flashes in the code.Thx.
Different furnace brands have different coding.The code meanings in your furnace's manual can be found on the door.I don't know the codes for all the brands.Many people don't remember them all.If you cannot find the codes on the unit or book, you can look at your model number and see if a manual pops up.
If the blower is coming on fast, it sounds like it isn't lighting the gas.If the ignitor is bad watch the unit as it tries to fire.Thank you for reading.
Steve said to look on the doors for a code chart.It will tell you what code 12 is.Fans run by default when there is a malfunction.It is possible that the board is shorted out.Thank you for reading.
I have a code.The unit worked fine the other night.There was no heat.Even after the panels were removed.That finally stopped.Suggestions?