There are some things to know about parrots and their care requirements before you decide to get one.parrots are wild by nature and not domesticated like dogs and cats, so they retain many behaviors and instincts of their cousins in the wild.You will need to learn the qualities of your particular parrot species if you want to get one.Smaller parrots (cockatiels or parrotlets) can live up to 30 years, while the larger parrots are able to live to 80 years old.
Step 1: A proper cage is required.
Round cages that do not have corners are unsafe for parrots, so they prefer square or rectangular cages.Make sure your cage is large enough for your parrot to fit in.There should be enough room for perches, toys, food bowls, water bowls and rest areas.Depending on the size of your parrot, you can choose between a minimum of 24 W x 24 H and a maximum of 312 ft D.
Step 2: He can interact with the cage in a room.
The parrots are social creatures.They stay with a flock in the wild and keep in touch with their flock mates.They may develop separation anxiety if they are kept isolated.The rooms where the human flock hangs out are where parrots like to be.If you have other pets, you should keep your bird cage in a room that can be closed off while you are gone.If your other pets are causing stress to the bird, you should keep them out of the room.
Step 3: Keep the temperature stable.
The ideal temperature for your parrot is between 65 and 85 degrees.Don't leave your parrot in a cold room during the winter.Birds are more likely to die if the temperature is below 40 degrees.Plumper birds can experience heat stress.There is plenty of air circulation if you keep your parrot in higher temperatures.
Step 4: It is a good idea to get your new parrot into its cage for the first time.
If the worst happens, close your doors and windows.You will need to figure out how friendly or aggressive your new parrot is.Bring your hand in toward the bird slowly as you open the carrier.You can keep moving your hand toward it if it isn't reacting much.You need to use the second method if it is opening its beak and snapping at you.If you want a non- aggressive bird, keep moving your hand toward it and aim your fingers above the feet.If you say "step up", it will jump onto your fingers or arm.Take it out of the carrier and put it in the cage.The cage perch should run parallel to your hand and slightly above the bird's feet.You can close the door and let it adjust to its new home for a while.If you want an aggressive parrot or one that doesn't know how to step up, you'll need to get a hold of him.Your relationship won't be affected by this; the parrot will get over it.If he flies around the room he will be harder to catch and you want to make sure you do this quickly.If you are scared, you can use a towel or thin leather gloves.Try to grab him by the neck just below the head because it is safer for him not to get bit.If you get a hold of him, get him quickly to the cage.Give him some space for a while, regardless of how you got him in the cage.He is likely to eat and drink less for a few days, but be sure he has access to familiar food and water.He should be given some time to calm down and adjust to his new home.
Step 5: Your parrot's diet should be changed.
A varied diet is what parrots need.The bird seed and pellet mixes at pet stores are a good base for their diet.Feed fresh fruits and vegetables if you want to supplement the seed or pellet mixture.If you were preparing them for people, rinse them well.Many parrots like grapes, bananas, apples, carrots, berries, greens, peas, green beans, and more.It's important to not use it on fruit because of its sugar content.Some types of parrots like to open the nuts to get the meat out.Give your parrot some nuts.Do not feed parrots caffeine, alcohol, chocolate, salty snacks, greasy foods, and raw or dry beans.It's never a good idea to give a parrot food.Both are harmful to parrots.There is a chance of death in a parrot.
Step 6: Feed the right amount.
Medium and small birds should have food and water containers that are at least 20 ounces.Food and water should be at least 30 ounces for large birds.Higher metabolisms and levels of activity make weaned babies and small birds need more food.
Step 7: A large container of water is enough for your bird to bathe in.
Birds drink out of the same water that they bathe in.If the guidelines say to put vitamins in water, be careful.Birds do not drink that much, so you don't know how much they are getting, and it can causebacteria to form quickly in the water.
Step 8: Don't cook with non-stick pans or utensils.
This is true if you keep your parrot in the kitchen.When heated above a certain temperature, the chemicals used in non-stick cookware can be deadly to parrots.Second hand smoke is just as bad for parrots as it is for humans.If you have a parrot, don't smoke in the house.
Step 9: Tend to the bottom of the cage every two days.
Remove any liners and discard any shells, seeds, gravel, or toys that have been destroyed.It's a good idea to spot clean any mess that doesn't require a lot of time.It happens once a day.
Step 10: Change the food and water bowls daily.
Remove the bowls and replace them with fresh food and water.Immediately after feeding, remove foods that rot quickly.If you want to keep your parrot's cage clean, be sure to use bird-safe ivermectin, which can be found at your local pet store.Human Disinfectants can be harmful to your bird.
Step 11: You can visit the vet on a regular basis.
Most of the time when your parrot encounters a health problem, it could have been solved with some preventative vet consultations.If your vet sees birds specifically, you will save money.Yearly health checks should be planned.
Step 12: There are health problems that you should watch for.
A healthy parrot is alert to his surroundings, stays upright most of the time, and is active.If your parrot is acting sick, see a doctor.There are a number of signs of a sick parrot.
Step 13: It's a good idea to approach the cage correctly.
Don't make any loud noises when approaching your parrot's cage.It is possible to avoid eye contact in the beginning for a bird that is afraid of a predator.If you find the parrot trying to bite you, or making other drastic displays of discomfort to your presence, you will need to get him accustomed to you.Stop and stay where you are when you start walking back in.Wait for him to calm down and not approach further.Then walk closer.Stay still until he calms down, if he acts up again.You may need to do this a lot until you are close to the cage.
Step 14: Determine what to give your parrot.
It's important to give your parrot the socialization he needs.Give him a variety of nuts, fresh and dried fruits, and seeds to see if he likes them.Give a new parrot a few days to get used to some of these foods.Save it for training if you decide to serve it as part of your daily meals.
Step 15: To get your parrot to come out of the cage, use target training.
Getting the parrot to eat treats from your hand is the first step in training.It may take a few seconds.You can get a treat at the side of the cage.Wait for the parrot to eat it.The clicker should be introduced when your parrot is comfortable eating treats from your hand.Before offering a treat, begin clicking the clicker.It will be used to hearing the click before eating a treat if this is done every time.To get your parrot to move to certain areas of the cage, use a target stick.Allow the parrot to move close to the stick and deliver a click and a treat.The click and treat will help the parrot move toward the stick.If he doesn't like the stick, you should wait until he gets hungrier to start training again.To teach your parrot to step up onto your hand, use the target stick.You should be able to bring your parrot out of the cage eventually.Try to only train once or twice a day and keep all of your training sessions short.
Step 16: You can pet your parrot if you tame him.
Many parrots enjoy being petted.His beak is the first place to start.You will know he is comfortable with you touching him once you have your hand near his beak.Slowly bring your hand near him.Stop if he looks like he's going to bite.Wait until he calms down and hold your hand.If you don't want him to bite you, take your hand away and give him a treat.Touch his body the same way as before.Slowly, move your hand toward him.Stop and wait if he seems upset.Be allowed to pet him.Give him a treat once you can pet him.
Step 17: Talk to your bird.
All parrots have the ability to mimic human speech.Talking to your parrot is an important part of his emotional health, so be sure to talk to him often.Give him apples or bananas when you give him certain types of food."Hello, Alex" or "Good morning!" is what you should say when you walk into the room.Say good-bye when you leave a room and your parrot will enjoy hearing you sing, watch tv or listen to music.If you want your parrot to repeat bad language, be careful cursing or yelling around him.
Step 18: Pick the best toys for your parrot.
Mental stimulation is provided by toys.There should be toys with a variety of colors and sounds.It is a good idea to change the toys weekly so your parrot doesn't get bored of the same toys day in and day out.Small, lightweight toys and mirrors are good for small birds.Birds like to manipulate thicker toy pieces with their beaks, tongues and feet.Birds like to chew.Their natural behavior is to tear things apart.If the toys are cracked or break into small pieces, you should throw them away.
Step 19: You can learn parrot body language.
A parrot with an upright stance and smoothed feathers is wary or frightened.The feathers are loose and ruffled.A bird with puffed out feathers may not be feeling well.He is courting or getting ready to fight if the feathers are sticking as far out as possible.He is feeling happy and healthy if he stretches out one wing and then the other.When they see something they like, some happy birds wiggle their tongues or move their beaks up and down.