The floor of the bathroom has a drainpipe that connects to the bottom of a toilet.The toilet may need to be replaced if it's leaking from the base.If you lift the toilet off the flange, you can usually do the project yourself, but you may want to call a plumbing professional.
Step 1: Next to the toilet, put newspapers or towels.
You can place the toilet on these if you want to.You don't have to move the toilet too far if you leave enough room to work on it.There is a chance that the bottom of the toilet will scratch the tile or the tub's finish if you place it in a nearby tub or shower stall.
Step 2: The water supply must be turned off.
The shutoff valve is usually located from the floor to the left or right of the toilet.To shut off the water, turn the valve clockwise.You will have to shut off the water further down the line if you fail to close the valve completely.
Step 3: Take the water out of the bowl.
The tank won't refill if the water supply is shut off.To empty most of the water from the bowl, flush again.To remove water from the tank and bowl, use a wet vac, turkey baster, or large sponge.
Step 4: The water supply hose needs to be disconnected.
The braided metal that runs between the shutoff valve and the toilet tank is what this is.The underside of the toilet tank has acoupling.If you can't loosen it by hand, use a crescent wrench or pliers to turn it counterclockwise.If there is a small amount of water left in the hose, you can use a towel to sop it up.
Step 5: The nuts that hold the toilet to the floor need to be removed.
Below the bowl, you can find these to the left and right of the toilet base.If they are covered by plastic caps, pop these off by hand.You can remove the nuts from the bolts by hand or with a wrench.A metal washer should be underneath the nut, as well as a plastic one.Also, remove these.The new toilet set should come with nuts, bolts, and washers, but you should keep them handy.
Step 6: Lift the toilet up and put it in the newspapers.
If you aren't sure you can lift it, get help.To lift it on its own, you need to straddle the bowl, bend your knees, grip the underside of the toilet, and lift straight up with your legs.To clear the bolts from the base, you need to lift the toilet straight up.Walk the toilet over to the waiting newspapers or towels.Some residual water may leak out when you do this, so have a towel handy to wipe it up.
Step 7: Plug up the outflow pipe with an old towel or T-shirt.
Push the towel or shirt securely into the pipe, but don't stuff it down so far or tightly that you will not be able to retrieve it later.There are unpleasant sewer gases that can be prevented by blocking the pipe.Some people wait for the old pipe to be removed.By blocking it now, you can stop sewer gases earlier and prevent accidentally losing things down the pipe.
Step 8: The old wax ring can be removed with a knife.
The wax ring sits on top of the toilet and seals the connection between it and the base.The wax ring is discolored and will be difficult to remove with a knife.You can wipe your knife off if you keep a newspaper or towel nearby.The wax will come off in clumps.
Step 9: The screws that attach the flange to the floor should be taken off.
The screws enter the floorboards through the lip.You will usually find 4 of them.Remove the heads with a screwdriver.These are an emergency backup for the screws that come with the kit.
Step 10: The gasket should be removed if it's made out of PVC.
Once the screws have been removed, you will be able to lift it up from the outflow pipe.You can take a closer look at it if you rinse it under the sink and wipe it clean with a rag.If there are no cracks, chips, or deformations, you can just replace it with a new wax ring.It's best to just replace it if it doesn't look good.Always install a new wax ring if you reuse the flange.
Step 11: If you have a cast iron or glued-in flange, call a plumbing professional.
If the outflow pipe is held in by a rubber gasket, there are 2 other options.It could either be made of cast iron and integrated into the outflow pipe or it could be a mixture of both.It is best to have a plumbing professional finish the job for you.You will have to use a chisel or drill to remove the glue from the inside or outside of the PVC outflow pipe.You will face costly repairs if you damage the outflow pipe.You will need a chisel and rubber mallet to chip away at the lip of the old cast iron outflow pipe.Damage to the outflow pipe will be costly.
Step 12: Measure the diameter of the exposed outflow pipe.
The pipe should be at least 10 cm in diameter.It's a good idea to reference this measurement when you buy the new one.This measurement is mostly for backup purposes if you can take the old flange with you to the hardware store.You will definitely need this measurement if the old flange has broken into pieces.
Step 13: Go to the hardware store and buy the same thing.
It is possible to duplicate the size and shape of the old one with a new one.You will be sure of a good fit.Ask an employee at the store for help if you can't find a good match.If you don't have the old one, buy a new one that matches the measurement you took.
Step 14: Purchase a new wax ring.
Some new kits come with a wax ring, while others require you to buy the ring separately.Make sure you have a new wax ring with you.Some newer rings are rubber gasket instead of wax.You can install a rubber gasket the same way you would a wax ring.
Step 15: The included bolts need to be fed into the new one.
Before final installation, remove the nut and washers from each bolt.You can feed the heads of the 2 bolts through the channels on the lip.The bolts should be positioned so that they are pointing straight up.If you still have the old bolts, you can reuse them if you lose the new ones.
Step 16: The outflow pipe needs to be pushed on with the new flange.
The lip should rest flush on the floor and the neck should slide into the pipe.The back of the toilet will be at 12 o'clock if the bolts are positioned correctly.A seal against the inside of the overflow pipe should be created by a rubber gasket.The flooring is likely to be warped or damaged due to water if the lip of the flange doesn't rest flush to the floor all the way around.If you need floor repairs, you should call in a pro to do them.
Step 17: Drive screws into the flooring through the lip.
The screws that came in the package should be secured with a screwdriver.You should drive the screws in the pre-cut holes.If needed, use a drill to create new pilot holes.The old holes are too large to hold the new screws.If that is the case, use a mallet to tap the plastic wall anchors into the holes and then drive the screws through the lip.Yours may have more or fewer screws.
Step 18: The towel or T-shirt can be removed from the pipe.
Pick out the pieces of the wax ring.Before getting rid of the towel or shirt.They might fall down the pipe.Don't use this towel or shirt again, just toss it!
Step 19: Put the new wax ring into the toilet.
The wax ring surrounds the opening on the bottom of the toilet.Don't bend the wax ring, press firmly all the way around it.Pros prefer to apply the wax ring this way in order to get a good seal around the toilet.You can lay the ring on top of the toilet, then set it on the other side.If you use the newer type of wax ring that is a rubber gasket, place the toilet on top of it and lay it rounded side up.
Step 20: The toilet needs to be on the top of the flange.
Line up the holes in the toilet base with bolts.To seal the connection, press down firmly near the back of the bowl rim when the toilet is resting.If you pressed the wax ring to the underside of the toilet, the process would be the same.
Step 21: Put the washers and nuts on the bolts.
After putting a plastic washer on each bolt, follow with a metal one.After that, use a crescent or sockets wrench to secure the nuts.Attach the plastic caps to the bolts by snapping them in place.You may need to trim the bolts with a hacksaw if they are too long.
Step 22: The water supply hose needs to be connected.
Attach the metal supply hose to the underside of the toilet tank by hand.If needed, use a crescent wrench or pliers.metal ones can be tightened with a wrench or pliers, while plastic ones are only intended to be hand-tightened.
Step 23: The water supply needs to be turned on to the toilet.
The water can be turned back on by turning the valve clockwise.The toilet tank will begin to fill.Check for leaks at the connection point between the supply line and the toilet tank while the tank fills.
Step 24: The toilet needs to be flushed multiple times to check for leaks.
The base of the toilet has a floor.You are all set if it stays dry.If you see water coming out of the toilet, you need to remove it and call a professional.