Pear trees are a good choice for planting.

TheBradford pear is a callery pear that grows 2 to 3 feet (61 to 91 cm) a year to a height of 50 feet.Trees that grow quickly tend to have weak branches that break easily due to snow, ice and strong winds, which is a good thing.These trees will grow quickly with glossy, deep green leaves and bloom in early spring with attractive fall leaf colors if they are planted correctly.

Step 1: Check to see if pear cultivars are considered a problem in your area or state.

In the eastern and mid-western United States, as well as a few isolated areas in California and Utah, the pear tree is classified as an Invasive species.Ask your local Extension office if a callery pear can be planted in your area.

Step 2: If possible, plant the pear in the soil.

They will grow well in clay and sandy soil.A soil pH test is unnecessary because they will grow equally well in acidic, neutral and alkaline soil.

Step 3: You can find a site that has at least six hours of sunlight.

Avoid planting near structures, parking areas, and sidewalks that have fallen branches.The canopies on these trees will eventually grow to 25 feet.If a branch breaks, the tree should be planted at least 15 feet away.

Step 4: In the fall after a hard frost, plant all callery pears, including those sold without soil on the root system.

The trees will be able to devote all their energy to growing new roots during this time.They can increase their root system by planting them in autumn, which will result in a healthier tree that will be ready to grow in the spring.You can plant callery pears in containers or wrapped B&B roots any time of the year.B&B roots are balled-and-burlapped.

Step 5: The callery pear trees need to be watered every day.

They are protected from the wind in a shady area.If the root system is allowed to dry out, it will be damaged.

Step 6: To dig a hole larger than the root mass of the callery pear tree, you must use a dirt shovel.

If the soil is clay, you can use a trowel or rake to scratch up the sides of the hole.A smooth surface that is difficult for tree roots and water to penetrate is created when a shovel is pushed into clay soil.

Step 7: Callery pears can be removed from their containers.

You can put the container on the side and slide the tree out.The base of the trunk is where you can pull the tree out.

Step 8: You canDisinfect a pair of sharp hand pruners by soaking them in household Disinfectant for 5 minutes.

If you want to wash them off, use a clean rag.Before using them, let them dry.Don't use them to cut the root while it's wet because it will harm the tree.

Step 9: Any roots that are growing around the outside of the root mass should be cut with the hand pruners.

circling roots are what they are called.The best way to remove them is by smothering the tree.Cut the roots at the base of the tree.

Step 10: Use a sharp knife to cut the root mass.

If the tree had a tight, full root mass in the container, use the knife to make three to four slices from the top to the bottom.The slices should be spread evenly around the root mass.The longer roots should be gently worked away from the rest of the roots.The callery pear can grow new roots into the soil if the roots are loosened.

Step 11: Set balled-and-burlapped callery pears in the hole with the root wrapping on the mass.

Remove the plastic wrap from under the tree if theburlap is real.Pull it down from the rootball and leave it in the bottom of the hole if it is natural.It will break down on its own.The roots may be damaged if it is pulled out from under the tree.

Step 12: The B&B callery pear root mass is circular.

If there is a wire basket on the roots, you can use wire cutter to remove it.There should be no wires around the trunk or roots.

Step 13: Break up any clumps of dirt and remove stones from the backfill soil.

To do this, use a shovel.

Step 14: To spread the roots, hold them over the center of the hole by the trunk's base.

Don't bend or crush the roots.A dead tree will be caused by crushed and bent roots.

Step 15: Push the soil into the hole.

You should work it between the roots of the trees.The hole should be filled halfway.

Step 16: To settle the soil, pour 1 to 2 gallons of water evenly over it.

The outer edge of the hole should be filled and a ring of soil created around it.It will encourage the water to soak in above the rootball where the tree needs it rather than the loose soil in the planting hole.

Step 17: 2 to 3 gallons of water are needed to water the tree.

To settle the soil, pour it over the rootball and the loose soil beyond it.

Step 18: A depth of organic mulch is spread over the soil.

This will allow it to retain water.Keep the mulch 3 inches away from the trunk.Cankers can kill a tree if mulch is pushed against it.

Step 19: When the soil in the rootball starts to dry, water the tree.

The best way to determine if the rootball is dry is to poke your finger into it.Check it again in a couple of days if it is still wet.For the first three months after planting, the rootball should be kept moist.

Step 20: To water a tree, use a watering can or garden hose.

Water can be directed over the roots but not on the tree trunk.After the tree is established, allow the top 1 to 2 inches of soil to dry, then give it 6 to 9 gallons of water.10 gallons of water can be delivered by running a hose for 5 minutes.This type of deep watering will encourage the tree to grow deeper into the soil, making it more tolerant of the weather.

Step 21: If the tree's leaves are turning brown or dropping off, you should water it.

The tree is not getting enough water.If it is getting too much water, its leaves will turn pale green or yellow, or it may stay green but become brittle.

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