Simple floating shelves are what you should build.
A floating shelf is an elegant way of displaying items.The name "floating" comes from the fact that the shelf is extending directly out of the wall without any supports.To build floating shelves, you need to determine whether you want to use traditional solid wood or a hollow-core door, then cut the wood to the correct dimensions, assemble the pieces, and fix the shelf on the wall using a hidden shelf mount.The flexibility of this project makes it the perfect way to get rid of unused wood.
Step 1: Purchase two wooden panels for each shelf.
The panel size is related to the size of the finished shelf.If you want to apply paint or a nicer veneer, you can use a nice wood or plywood.The Cedar Pickets are great, simple projects that work equally well will plywood, cedar, or nice sheets of maple or walnut.If possible, use a table saw to cut lines.
Step 2: You need to cut out at least two strips of wood.
To create a hollow-core shelf that can fit over a shelf mount on your wall, the first one will be cut into pieces and placed between your panels.The shelf mount will be formed by the second.The pieces that make up the internal shelf framework will be placed down within the panelling, which will add 2 inches to the shelf.The wood should be thick.The frame of your shelf is formed by this piece.
Step 3: Cut the strip into three pieces, one for each side of the panels.
The width of your wood panels requires the two shorter pieces to fit.The longer piece covers the width between the two pieces.Place the strips on the panel as a "dry run" after cutting.The frame should be around the three sides of the panel.To get a perfect diagonal joint, cut one end of each short piece and both ends of the long piece so that they fit together to form 90-degree angles in the corners.You can tuck the shorter pieces behind the longer one if you leave the front strip as is.It's always a good idea to cut on the side of "too long".You can cut off a little more, but not add it back.
Step 4: Attach the strips to one of the panels.
Place the three strips on the panel to form three continuous edges.Place the second panel on top by running a line of wood glue along the top of each strip.Attach the top panel with finishing nails or a nail gun.If you use wood glue, you need to make sure the board stays in place as it dries.For thicker wood, skip the nail gun and use a power drill.
Step 5: Attach the second panel to the frame.
To expose the bottoms of the wooden strips, flip the first panel, which is now attached to the shelf framework.Again, run a line of wood glue along the top of each strip, place the free panel on top, and nail it to the strips.
Step 6: Allow the wood glue to dry for a few hours.
The more time you have, the better.You can leave the shelf until it is hardened, but keep the clamps on to make sure it dries well.When the drying is done, take the clamps off.
Step 7: To smooth the finished shelf, use an orbital sander and 220 grit paper.
When you've finished building, remove the entire shelf.This makes it easier to finish.
Step 8: The shelf can be finished with paint, veneer, stain, or a solution.
If veneer is used, be sure to keep the grain consistent.Leaving the stain to dry will allow you to move on to the support brackets that hold the shelf in the wall.
Step 9: You can measure the length and width of the shelf.
The mount you make to fix the shelf to the wall will fit inside this hollow.This is the reason the shelf floats.There is a hidden mount attached to the wall that hangs on the hollow part of the shelf.
Step 10: Cut another strip of wood from the hollow space.
Cut the strip so that it can fit on the 4th wall of your shelf.When done, try to fit the board into your shelf.This is the base of the wall mount.This should be at least a quarter of an inch thick.Some builders prefer to make the mount first.You can use the shelf as a guide for measuring around the mount.Neither way is better than the other.
Step 11: Cut out two strips that are the same length as the hollow space.
The shelf is held up by the two strips that extend off the wall.They need to fit into the hollow space or the shelf won't flush.To find the right measurement, simply measure the total width of the shelf and subtract the width from the frame.
Step 12: The support strips should be parallel to the mounting strip.
The framework is thinner so that it fits inside the shelf.The frame was created using wood glue and a nail gun.You should use a square edge to get the mounts.The mount will be much sturdier if you use a pocket joiner and power drill.A third or fourth support strip is identical to the two on the outside.The E-shaped brackets can hold more weight.
Step 13: There is a wall mount.
Does it fit in the hollow shelf?If not adjusted, sanding and cutting wood to make the mount fit as snug as possible.There is no need to polish or finish the wall mount.
Step 14: Attach the wall to the shelf mount.
Attaching it directly to the wall studs is the best way to do this.They can be found either with a stud locator or by knocking on the wall.
Step 15: The shelf is on the shelf mount.
It should fit in a glove.If you want to attach the shelf permanently, you can either leave it sitting over the mount or take it back off.
Step 16: There are steps to make additional shelves.
There are different dimensions to the shelves.
Step 17: Cut a door that's 18 inches long.
Attach a straightedge guide to the door and cut it with a blade.If you exceed 9 inches, the strength of the shelf will be weakened.
Step 18: Attach cleats from a 2x4.
The outer veneer of the door has space between it.The measurement will tell you how thick your cleats are.They should be close to the door.
Step 19: To mark where you want the shelf to sit, use a pencil and level.
To mark the locations of the studs, use a stud finder and a strip of masking tape.
Step 20: Pre-drill the holes.
Hold the cleat against the wall.Place the drill into the stud.Attach a quarter-in. to the bit.x 3 in.Each stud has a lag screw.The screw should be straight and tight.
Step 21: Cut away the corrugated cardboard core at least 1 inch from the cut edge.
Use a bread knife to get the glue off the wood.
Step 22: Put the shelf to the test.
The blank should be over the cleat.If the shelf isn't tight against the wall, use a block plane or sander on the back edge.
Step 23: The shelf needs to be put on.
The shelf needs to be moved over the cleat.If you want the shelf to be permanently mounted, you need to glue the top of the cleat and the door blank together.
Step 24: The shelf must be nailed to the cleat.
Start at the middle and work your way to each end using a square as a guide.The brad nails should be 8 inches apart.The bottom should be nailbed as well.If you want the shelf to be removed, use counter-sunk screws instead of brads.Use a small sticker to cover the heads after installing them from the top.The paint on the shelf can be used to match the stickers.