Staghorn Fern: How to grow and care for...

The staghorn fern is a tropical plant that can be grown as a houseplant or hanging plant.Some of the leaves on these plants are antler-like in shape.The shape of the plant makes it look like there were many green pairs of horns on the roots.

Are they easy to care for?We are going to show you how to raise your own cluster of lush, green elkhorn fern leaves from the ins and outs of growing this magnificent centerpiece plant.

There are a number of platyceriums referred to in texts.There is some confusion as to how many types there are.Some varieties have been merged and considered part of the same species.

Most gardeners assume that there are around eighteen varieties grown commonly.Some of the most popular varieties are listed here.

Each plant has two different types of leaves.While shielding the roots from excess water, the uppermost leaves will catch fallen leaves, insects, and other debris.

The lower leaves are where most types of staghorn ferns grow.Over time, some varieties can grow to encircle whatever surface they are growing on.

There are two types of leaves produced by this variety.The first is an upright, broad shield leaf, and the second is a long, dangling fertile leaf.The leaves carry the plant's spores.

An air plant, platycerium coronarium comes from southeastern Asia.

One leaf type is called a shield and the other is a long, slender frond with many finger-like tips.It is believed that the shield leaf protects the root mass from getting wet in the rainforest.

The platycerium alcicorne var is one of the most popular varieties in the tropics.vassei.At one point, it was referred to as platycerium vassei, but now it is part of the alcicorne species.

The only platycerium that is native to the Americas is located in the mountains of South America.

Unlike a domed shield-shaped leaf, this species has antler-like protrusions for both the spore leaves and the upper protective leaves.The leaves are narrower and longer than the upper leaves.The pups can grow to encircle the tree the plant is on.

One of the most popular plants is the elkhorn fern, which has sterile fronds that can grow up to 36′′ in length.It can be grown outdoors in sheltered locations.

It's origins are in Australia and New Zealand.The species is epiphytic.

Shield-leaves are shaped like a body of water.The stiff staghorn's fertile leaves are narrower than the shields, but are still wider than other platycerium varieties.

It is sometimes referred to as the Australian clumping staghorn.It has a shallow forking pattern and smaller shields.

Unlike the majority of the platyceriums I have described so far, this one definitely has earned its name of elephant ear, as the normal forking and antler-like shape is nowhere in evidence.The plant has wide, rounded fertile fronds and tall and arching sterile fronds.

The plant prefers soil around its roots.Some elephant ears that have been grown on wooden posts have rotted out due to being constantly wet.They come from Africa.

The Platycerium superbum is an Australian native plant that creates a large nest frond to catch insects.The antler-like fronds from the nest are broad and can be used for propagation.The only way to grow it is from the spores.

These are popular and easy to find, and have dominated the market in some areas as easy-growing epiphytes.They are often confused with another name.

At one point, it was thought to be a part of the same family.The superbum originated in the Philippines, and its dangling fronds are much narrower than the grande.

When these plants have matured, they can make their own curtain of slender fronds which can be hung from a hanging container or adorn a wall.The clear-cut nature of their natural habitat makes it hard to find for sale.

From the center of the shield leaves, there is a stalk filled with antler-shaped fronds.The platycerium ridleyi is a popular plant in Thailand.

At this point, the rainforest plant is mostly extinct, but can occasionally be found for sale in Thailand.Natural habitats have lost their growth.

Unlike most other staghorn ferns, these don't collect leaf litter in their shielding growth.They rely on ants and other insects for their nutrition.These can be difficult to grow at home.

African in origin, this variety tends to fork its leaves like inverted Y's, creating the appearance of long triangles.Its leaves are tall and wide.

The central V of the sporing leaves is where the spore patches appear.A darker patch can be quite appealing to look at.Some are dark green, but most are mid-range green.

The last Australian species tends to be covered in white hairs.The shield fronds have tall, slender fingers.The fertile fronds have an outward extending habit before they droop towards the ground.

In the wild, silver elkhorn likes to grow on rocks in full sun.It loses some of its silvery appearance if it is grown in harsher conditions.

One variety, Platycerium veitchii var.limoneii is sometimes referred to as green veitchii because it doesn't have the silvery appearance of its relatives.

They are mostly self-sufficient and are not difficult to care for.They need a few things for growth.Read on to find out more.

The ferns grow in the crooks of tree branches or on tree trunks.They prefer bright indirect light in their tropical homes, but can tolerate full sun.If you have a bright location that doesn't get direct sunlight, they should be in it.

They prefer warmer climates since they are tropical plants.The temperatures can be as low as 30 Fahrenheit.Most varieties above 60 are wanted by P alcicorne and P hillii.

The plants prefer the range between 60 and 80 degrees as an optimal zone.In California, Florida, and other places with tropical climates, these plants can survive for most of the year.It may be necessary to keep your staghorn fern indoors in other areas.

The 60-80 zone is perfect for growing these indoors.

It has roots that grasp onto wooden surfaces to hold them in place.The leaves of the plant absorb water.The roots don't need as much water as they used to.

One of the biggest challenges for growers is the amount of light and heat the plant is receiving.

Most people have their fern mounted on a wooden board or in a bed of moss.The moss can make it easy to overwater.It is possible to underwater as well.

It is a good idea to mist once a week during hot and dry weather to focus on the undersides of the leaves.Every two to three weeks is fine during cooler times.

You will want to keep the medium moist so the roots don't get wet.You don't want it wet.If it is mounted on a board, running water over the board and growing medium is enough.It's a good idea to hang a potted or hanging basket fern to make sure it doesn't get wet.

Less watering is necessary when there is more humidity.If you want to keep your plant happy, place it in a bathroom or other humid location.

If the tips of your antler fronds begin to brown, you should increase the amount of watering you do.You need to cut back on the frequencies if the antler fronds begin to blacken.

Most of the other species are not as hard on the water.Black blotches on its shield leaves are signs of over watering.Try to improve the flow of air around your plant.

Staghorns with their roots wrapped in sheet moss or burlap are often mounted on wooden surfaces.This provides a slightly-moist environment for the roots that mimics the leaf litter and moss that grows around them in the wild.

If you want to hang your plant from a wall, you can grow it in a wire hanging basket with a coconut coir or sphagnum moss liner.Use more moss or coir to help secure your plant in place, fill with an extremely well-draining potting soil, and use a blend of half cactus and orchid bark.

Specimens grown in baskets will eventually form pups and develop growth around the basket.

You may need to add a mesh net to keep the soil and moss inside the bag.These can be hung from the wall, and will grow to surround the bag.

During the spring and summer, it is a good time to fertilize your staghorn fern.

If you want to fertilize your plant once a month during certain times of the year, use a quarter-strength diluted liquid kelp.If you want an evenly balanced liquidfertilizer, you can justDilute it to a low level.

Your plant will go quiet in the fall and winter.During that time of year, reduce fertilization to every other month.

Reducing the amount of fertilization you give your fern will slow its growth.Older specimen don't need to be fertilized a lot.

If your plant is located in a tree or somewhere where leaf litter, dust, and moss will build up around it, you may not need to fertilize at all.Some people like to put a small amount of compost or plant matter underneath the shield leaves so that the plant can feed on it.

The gorgeous ferns can be spread by either dividing it or from pups.

The first thing you have to do is collect the spores.There are patches of leaves which have turned brown.If it is easier to work with, you can cut a leaf with a patch.

There is a piece of paper underneath the leaf.Use a butterknife or other non-sharp tool to remove the leaf's leaves from the paper.

You will need to prepare a container for your spores once you have them.There are many ways to do this.You can use a seed starting tray with draining holes and a lid, or a heavier plastic container with no drainage.

The process shown in the video creates a sterile environment to grow in.If you are doing this process, make sure that your container is the same size as the one shown in the video, and that it is microwave-safe, otherwise you may have a problem.

You have to examine your adult plant closely to propagate from pups or by division.Young plants can be found along the sides or between individual plants.You can make cuts to separate them.

Large plants can be cut in half and separated into two smaller plants to reduce their size.It is easier to separate all the parts.

The goal is to leave at least three inches of space around each plant's base to make sure you have the whole material.To leave as much room as possible for mounting, use a clean saw and cut off the mature plants.

This video will give you a good idea of how to separate the pups and large plants.It shows you how to mount a deer.

You can plant a board in a wire basket, as shown in the latter part of the video above.

If you want to support the weight of a large plant, choose a wire hanging basket which has a sturdy hanger.Staghorn ferns continue to grow and form pups, so you may need to divide off the pups regularly to keep the weight down.

Line the inside of the basket with moss.The coconut coir basket liner can be used.If you want to make a base for your fern to sit on, you need to pack the interior firmly.

Attach wires to the sides of the basket to hold the fern in place, forming an X shape that surrounds the base of it.You could run a wire across the top of the fern's base and hide it in the leaves.

You can plant in a normal pot, but you might need to put it on a stand as the plant grows.

Half cactus and half orchid bark can be used to create a potting soil.If the roots are visible, spread them out.To make sure the blend is well balanced and that the roots have contact with the mix, set it on top.

If you leave a little space in the pot, the plant can sit down inside for extra support.

Staghorn ferns don't require much trimming, but only when there is something to be done.

If the frond is damaged, use a pair of scissors to cut it off.Cut the frond at its base if it is showing signs of damage.Remove the damaged portion by trimming it.

If the shield leaves are damaged, they should be left on the plant.They help provide the plant with its required nutrition by decomposing around it.They help to keep the plant in place and protect it from damage.

If you don't overwater or underwater, you should have no growing problems.There are two pests and one disease to be aware of.

As with almost any plant that has leaves, aphids can become a problem.Mealybugs are a hazard.Plants are left with spotty damage due to the pests sucking the sap out of them.

It is important to not blast your plant with water in order to get rid of Staghorn Ferns.If you opt for a gentle spraying of all plant surfaces with insecticidal soap, it will wipe them out.

It is susceptible to black leaf spot, also known as rhizoctonia, like roses and many other thick-leaved plants.If left unaddressed, this fungus can spread quickly around your garden.

It is best to use a double-headed approach.If you want to destroy the leaves, spray them with a mild fungicide.

The only problem with your fertile antler fronds turning brown is that they are thirsty.If it is hot and dry, increase the watering frequency.

If a large patch turns brown, it is likely that the patch is drying out so it can release its spores.It is time to harvest your spores.

Shield leaves regularly brown.The plant will grow new leaves over time.The old ones form a dense layer that protects the base of the fern.They become plant food over time.

The plant can go quiet in the fall or winter.It may appear to be brown for a longer period of time because it won't grow new fronds as quickly.It will green back up quickly when the spring arrives.

This is an interesting question.There are people who tuck pieces of banana peel under the leaf shield of young plants, where it becomes more nutrition for the plant.

It is likely that this works well, but it may also attract ants, fruit flies, or other bad stuff to your fern.There may be pesticides on the outside that you don't know about if it's not organic.

I would recommend taking a little bit of compost and putting it under or around the shield leaves.Compost will provide valuable plant food, and you won't have insect issues with it.You don't want to create a pocket that will hold a lot of water, so be careful not to use too much.

In parts of Australia and New Zealand, the leather-leaf spore caterpillar is a problem.Its scientific name is Calicotis crucifera.

There isn't much information on Calicotis crucifera.It is a caterpillar species.

According to some information, they only eat leatherleaf fern spores.The name "elkhorn spore caterpillar" implies it may attack elkhorn fern, but it's not widely documented as a pest.

Damage caused by this tiny caterpillar includes leaf-tip browning and loss of some, but typically not all.

It can be difficult to find Calicotis crucifera, as they tunnel within the brown spore patches on the underside of leaves.They reach 6mm in length, which is extremely tiny and hard to see.They emerge as adults when they hang their cocoon from the underside of a leaf.

There are no known enemies of this caterpillar.Birds and other small animals can eat adult moths.