A diamond shaped piece is important for fitted pants.The crotch area is prone to getting bunched around it.While you are making a new pair of pants, you can add a gusset by ripping the crotch out of the existing ones.Adding a gusset will improve the fit of your pants.
Step 1: The seam of your pants can be opened.
If you want to add a gusset to finished pants, you need to open up the seam.You can use a seam ripper to open up the crotch area.Seam rippers look like a fork with two different sizes.The long point of the seam ripper can be used to catch stitches and the blade in the center can cut the surface.You might need to use the seam ripper a few times to open the stitches.If your pants are too tight in the crotch and you want to make more room, or if the fit is a bit off, you may need to add a gusset.If you are making a pair of pants from a pattern, the pattern will tell you how to cut them.You won’t need to worry about opening a seam in this case.Follow the instructions for cutting the pants.
Step 2: Determine the length and width
There is a pattern for you to use to determine the size of your gusset.Pin this piece onto your fabric by cutting it out.The fabric should be cut along the edge of the pattern.Measure to determine how much space you need if you don’t have a pattern.Take the person who will be wearing the pants and put them on and measure the gaps between their legs and crotch.Add a 1” seam to each measurement you record.Add 1” to each measurement for a total of 4” (10 cm) by 2” (5 cm).You will only need a piece that is about 4” to 5” (10 cm to 12.7 cm), long and wide, if you want it to be a gurat.
Step 3: To mark your fabric, measure it.
Measure and mark the points of your diamond with chalk.Draw lines between the points of your diamond shape on the fabric with a piece of chalk and a ruler.Measure the distance between the points of the diamond.The longest measurement will be from one point of the diamond to another and the shortest from another point to its opposite point.
Step 4: Cut out the piece of metal.
When you are done measuring and drawing your diamond onto the fabric, you can cut out the gusset piece by cutting along the edges you have drawn.Don’t cut inside or outside of the lines.Make your cuts as clean as possible by cutting right along the lines.
Step 5: The crotch opening is to the right.
The pants in the crotch area need to be pinned to the gusset when you are done cutting it out.The right side of the pants and the gusset piece should be facing each other.The seam will be hidden when you sew them.The longest part should go from the front to the back of the crotch.
Step 6: Beast a Stitch to secure the gusset.
You can use a temporary stitch to check the fit of a garment before making it permanent.An excellent fit in the crotch area of your pants can be ensured with the use of a baste stitch.To sew along the pinned edges of your gusset, set your sewing machine to the baste stitch setting.As you sew, remove the pins.
Step 7: Try on the pants.
The person should try on the pants after you have added the stitch.Ask the person how they feel in the crotch area if you look at how the pants fit.You can take it in a bit if it seems too large.You can take it out if it seems too small.If the fit looks good, you can sew your permanent stitch.
Step 8: The gusset should be removed and adjusted.
If you want to adjust the gusset, rip out the seam with a seam ripper.The stitches should come out easily.The crotch should be re-pinned with the desired fit in mind.If you want the gusset to be a little loose, you can pin it into place with a 12” seam allowance instead of a 2.5 cm one.If you want the gusset to be a little tighter, you can use a 1 12” seam allowance.If you have re-pinned your gusset, sew it into place again, and then have the person try on the pants again.If you’re happy with the fit, you can sew the gusset into place.The fit can be adjusted again if it’s still off.If the gusset piece is very ill fitting, you may need to start over and cut out a whole new piece.
Step 9: Use a straight stitch to sew the gusset.
The sewing machine should be set to the straight stitch setting.Begin to sew along the stitches you created.To get the fit that you want, sew directly over the baste stitch.When you get to the end of the gusset, backstitch a couple of times.Hold the lever on the side of the machine down for a few seconds to backstitch.This will change the direction of your fabric.Release the lever and sew to the end again.This may lead to puckering if you sew over the edge.Do not go past the edge of the piece if you sew right up to it.
Step 10: Using a zigzag stitch, tack down the seams.
The seam allowances will be sticking up when you are done sewing.They are not visible because they are inside of the pants.If you want, you can use a zigzag stitch.If you want to tack down the pieces, set your machine to the zigzag setting and sew over the seam allowances.While you are tacking down the seam allowances, keep your pants turned inside out.It’s optional, but it could increase the comfort of your pants.
Step 11: Cut the excess thread.
When you are done sewing the gusset, use a pair of scissors to cut the excess thread around it.Depending on the amount of sewing you did, you may only have a few strands to cut.Your gusset is ready to go after you finish cutting the excess thread.If you only need to add the gusset, finish sewing your pants or try them on.