The tools used to replace the felt, or more accurately the pool tablecloth, are not complicated or expensive.The requirements of a pool table make it difficult to do.Dust left on the table can make the final playing surface bumpy or unpredictable.You can minimize the chance of this happening by working slowly and carefully, and finding an assistant to stretch the cloth as you do it.
Step 1: disassemble the pool table.
If any pocket liners are present, remove them first.Remove the bolts on the underside of the table that hold the railings in place.The railing should be moved to a safe place where it won't get damaged, or interfere with your movement around the pool table.The railing can be made of one, two, or four pieces.You will need an assistant to transport the railing if it doesn't divide into four pieces.Some pool table pockets are bolted to the railings.
Step 2: The old felt needs to be removed.
There are ways in which felt can be attached.If the felt is stapled to the table, use a staple remover.You can rip the felt off if it is glue, but be careful not to damage any felt in the pockets unless you plan on replacing those portions as well.
Step 3: You can level the table.
If you want to know if your billiards table is flat, you can use a level.Use a small pry bar to lift the lowest leg if it is not.
Step 4: Put the slate in a container.
Dust can be removed with a dry, clean cloth.Don't use water or cleaning solutions.If old glue has built up, it is a good idea to remove it with a knife or blade.
Step 5: If it is necessary, seal the seams with beeswax.
Most pool tables are made from slate.Some of the wax that fills them in to create a flat surface may have been lost on an old pool table.If the wax needs replenishment, heat the slate around the seams with a propane hand torch.After spreading the wax evenly across the seam line, let it cool for no more than thirty seconds, then use a paint scraper to remove excess wax from the table surface.Excess wax can be difficult to remove once dry, so it's better to take too much.If your pool table is kept in a warm place, you may want to use a specific type of putty.There is a lot of disagreement over which synthetic product produces the best quality table, so you may wish to consult a local expert familiar with your climate.
Step 6: Measure the pool table to make sure it's perfect.
A faster process and a cleaner result can be achieved by measuring your felt.Make sure the table you purchase is at least 12 inches longer than the one on all four sides.This will make sure that you have enough cloth for the railings and the table surface.Pool felt is a special type of cloth, and while it's commonly referred to as "felt," it is actually "pool cloth," or "billiards cloth."You can't use ordinary felt to cover your pool table.Most players are familiar with woolen pool cloth.Worsted cloth is rarely used outside of professional tournaments due to it's less durable and price.Snooker cloth, carom, and the like are only suitable for certain uses.
Step 7: If there is a wooden board backing, use this method.
Many tables have a wooden or particle board layer beneath the slate.The perimeter or vertical edge of your table can be examined to see if this is true.If there is only slate, use the instructions to glue the felt.You'll need a hammer tacker, manual stapler, or a staple gun.
Step 8: The table and railing are made of felt.
Instructions for removing pieces to fit each railing are typically included with the felt.If the cut pieces don't fit your table, follow these instructions.You can make a one inch cut with some felt, then rip the felt by hand in a straight line.The felt may need to be cut with a box cutter or razor blade.
Step 9: The table has felt on it.
You can find a sticker that tells you which side is up.You can't tell which side is the playing surface if it's un labeled.If you're not familiar with the feel of that type, it's best not to guess.The extra felt should be hung over the foot end and not on the head end where you will begin installation.You should check for rips, scratches, and other defects now to make sure you don't have to get a replacement.
Step 10: The felt should be stretched across the head end and stapled to the vertical edge.
Attach the felt to the wooden or particle board lining of the table with a hammer tacker or gun staple.The overhang should be parallel with the table edge if you stretch the felt across the head end.Adhere about every 3 inches along this stretched edge, ending at the second corner.Professionals play on a surface that is tightly stretched.It is not desirable for most players to play on a slower table.It's always a good idea to stretch at least tightly.
Step 11: You can repeat the process on the left side.
An assistant can help you pull the felt taut along the long sides of the table.You need to staple on either side of the side pocket.Pulling the felt over each pocket will give you more material to work with when lining the pockets.
Step 12: On the right side, staple the foot end.
Pull the felt tight.Wrinkles in your table can be caused by an inconsistent pull.If the previous staples make it impossible to create a flat surface with this pull, you may need to remove a couple of them and try again.Once this is pulled to a smooth surface with the desired tightness, staple the short foot end and remaining right sides along their lengths.The side pocket should be stapled on each side.
Step 13: Attach the material at the pockets with a staple.
Make three slits in the felt over each pocket, then staple it inside the pocket with the loose felt.To remove the excess felt, use a pair of scissors or a razor blade.
Step 14: If the table can't be stapled, use specialized spray glue.
If you don't have wooden or particle board backing underneath the slate surface, you'll need a specialized glue to glue felt to it.If you see that backing, follow the instructions to suck the felt instead.3M Super 77 is a popular option.
Step 15: Place a newspaper on the sides of the table.
A layer of newspaper is overhanging the edge of the table to protect it from spilled glue.Before you lower the felt, remove the newspaper from each edge.
Step 16: The felt must be cut according to the instructions.
Instructions for cutting off strips for each railing are included with the felt.Follow the instructions to get the pieces you want.
Step 17: Put the felt over the table if you know the playing surface.
Try to identify the "face up" surface by consulting a professional.If you are not familiar with the material, you may need an expert to identify the face-up side of the felt playing surface.Put the felt over the table and leave a few inches of overhand on the short head end.Make sure the overhangs are parallel to the table edge.
Step 18: Put glue on the head end of the felt.
The underside of the slate will hang over the table if you fold the felt over it.If you want the slate to be attached, spray the underside heavily with the glue.The manufacturer's instructions say to let it sit until it becomes tacky.
Step 19: Attach the felt to the table.
If you want to attach the felt to the table, you have to align it carefully with the slate and press down on it.At the beginning of the process, you may need an assistant to make sure the material is taut.If you want to practice for professional tournaments, an ultra-tight surface is not necessary.The felt should be pulled with the same pressure.
Step 20: The process should be repeated with the far end and long sides.
The process is the same for each side.Wait at least a couple minutes between the two sides to create a strong initial bond.Carefully pull each side taut before applying glue, making sure there are nowrinkles on the cloth and you are pulling with the same force on every side.
Step 21: Attach the pockets with the excess felt.
The felt overhang should be trimmed on each side.A one inch wide strip of material can be used as a pocket liner.Cut off the material stretched over the pockets, then cut a strip from the slate to protect it from pool balls.
Step 22: The old felt should be removed from the rails.
To remove the staple from the rails, use a staple puller or flathead screwdriver.If the felt doesn't come off immediately, cut it along the rail.
Step 23: The feather strip should be removed gently.
Each rail has a thin wooden "featherstrip" running alongside it, which is not attached by any glue or nails.If it isn't easy to pry up, use a thin flathead screwdriver.
Step 24: Place a strip of felt over the rail.
The felt should be facing down, like the table top.An overhang of at least 10 cm on each end and 1/2 inch over the feather strip grooves is required.
Step 25: You can wedge in the center of the featherstrip with a tapping block and hammer.
Do not press the featherstrip down.An assistant should stretch the felt between the center and one end of the railing.Place a tapping block over the featherstrip, then use a hammer to gently tap the block, but stop about 2 inches (5 cm) from the end, where the corner pocket will be located.Continue this process for the rest of the featherstrip, stopping 2 inches (5 cm) away from the other end.If you hit the featherstrip directly, you may damage the table.
Step 26: Pull felt toward the cushion and then tap the ends of featherstrip.
Pull the felt at the ends of the table toward the rubber cushion, then tap in the remaining featherstrip until it is firmly in place.Remove excess material by folding the felt and covering the ends of the cushion.
Step 27: The outer rails can be reassembled.
Bolt your rails to the table again once they are complete.You can push a screwdriver through the bolt holes to find where the bolts should go.You may cut in the wrong place if you try to cut holes from the top of the table.