How To Build an Outdoor Storage Bench

Wouldn't it be great to have a way to keep your outdoor supplies organized and safe?If you want to add more seating to your yard, a storage bench is perfect.Storage benches are fairly easy to build and should take you about a day to finish.We will show you how to make a storage bench so you can keep your items out of sight.

Step 1: Pressure-treated wood can be bought.

Pressure-treated lumber will not rot or absorb moisture as easily as untreated wood.The most durable woods are cedar, treated pine, and treated poplar.Visit your local home improvement store or lumberyard to buy boards that are 1 in 6 in, 6 ft long, and 4 ft wide.

Step 2: Frame trims from 2 in 4 in boards with a circular saw.

When working with power tools, wear safety glasses to protect your eyes.Use a measuring tape to measure out 6 pieces that are 15 4 inches (40 cm) long.You know what to use the boards for when you label them with a pencil.Make sure to double-check your measurements before you cut them.If you don't know how to work a circular saw, you should ask for help.

Step 3: The side panels should be cut from the 1 in 6 in boards.

Measure and mark the lengths of the board so they are 35 4 in.Before setting them aside, carefully cut the pieces out with your saw and label them with the Front/ Back Panel.Measure and cut 10 more pieces that are 15 4 in.Each board has a side panel.The panels wrap around the sides of the bench to make it look the same.

Step 4: The cleats and floor slats are on the 1 in 2 in boards.

Take the lengths of board that are 34 4 in and mark them.Use your circular saw to cut through your marks.Set the pieces aside.The cleats and floor slats support the weight of the items you're storing so they are off the ground.

Step 5: The boards have to be cut down for the lid supports.

To mark two lengths of board, use your measuring tape and pencil.To cut the pieces down to size, trim along your marks.You should write "Lid support" on each piece.The lid supports hold the boards together.

Step 6: The sawn ends of your lumber can be applied with an end-cut sealer.

To wet the bristles of the paintbrush, dip it in a container of end-cut sealer.Any rough edges that you just cut should be brushed with a thin layer of the Sealer.Before you work with your wood again, let the end-cut sealer dry completely.You can buy it at the hardware store.As they dry out, the rough edges could split.

Step 7: Use your 2 in 4 in pieces to make U-shaped frames.

Place your frame pieces on your work surface so they are upright.Place one of the boards horizontally and align the other two vertically so they are flush with the first board.Put 2 screws that are 2 2 in (6.4 cm) long through the face of the horizontal board on each end to get into the vertical boards.To make the second frame, repeat the process with your other frames.The horizontal board becomes the top of your bench and the open ends of the vertical boards are feet that keep the bench elevated from the ground.

Step 8: Attach the panels to the frames.

The first side panel board should be laid flat on the long narrow edges of the vertical supports.The board should be positioned so that it extends past the top of the frame.2 screws are used to secure the panel to the frame.Place the next 2 panels below the first one and secure them the same way.Attach the side panels to the second frame piece.The bottom of the frames can be seen in the final build.

Step 9: Attach the front and back panels to the frames.

Align the first panel so it covers the end of the top side panel.2 screws are used to secure the panel to the frame.Attach the frame piece to the other end of the panel using the same method.Attach 2 more panel pieces to the front the same way.Attach 3 more panels when you flip the bench over.If any of your panels have knots, hide them on the inside of the bench.

Step 10: The bench has side panels that are flush with the cleats.

The bench should lie on the front or back.Place the 34 4 in pieces on the frame pieces inside the bench so they line up with the side panels.There are two screws that are long through the cleat and into the frame.Attach one cleat to the other side of the bench.If you put the cleats flush with the bottoms of the frames, they will be visible from the outside.

Step 11: The floor slats should be screwed to the cleats.

Make your bench right-side up by turning it over.The pieces on top of the cleats should be between the frame pieces.Attach 2 screws that are long through each end of the cleats to keep them in place.Place your 4 leftover panels on top of the cleats.Attach the cleats with 2 screws per end.Water from rain or a hose can drain out without pooling inside of your bench if you leave gaps between your floor slats.

Step 12: Hardware cloth is used to keep animals out of cleats.

Hardware cloth adds a layer of security to your bench.Attach the hardware cloth to your bench by cutting it with tin snips.Use a staple gun to secure the hardware cloth to the slats.Hardware cloth can be purchased from a home improvement store.

Step 13: The leftover boards should be used to construct the lid.

Put your 1 in 3 in lid supports on top of your frame pieces so they are flush with the tops of the panels.Align your 3 remaining panel pieces on top of your bench so they are flush with the sides.Put 2 of your 1 4 in screws through the face of the lid panel and into the support beneath it.The panels should be secured to the second support.If you screw the lid into the frame pieces, you won't be able to open the bench.

Step 14: The back of the bench has screw hinges on it.

The hinges should be placed about a third of the way in from the ends of your lid.The bottom of the lid has hinges that swing open.All the edges of the bench should be flush with the lid.The hinges are on the outside of the bench.

Step 15: Attach eye hooks and chains to the box.

The front corners of the end panels have an eye hook on them.There are two eye hooks on the tops of the battens that are closest to the bench.The bench should be pointing straight up if you open the lid.Attach a thin chain between the corner eye hook and the one on the other side.It doesn't prevent the lid from falling down, but it takes some stress off of the hinges when you open the bench.The lid stays are pneumatic devices that prevent the lid from dropping down suddenly.Attach the bottom to the side of the bench.

Step 16: Allow the wood to dry before adding any finishing touches.

The pressure-treated wood is slightly wet so it won't accept paint or stain right away.It may take a few weeks or even months for the wood to dry.When the wood feels dry, flick the water onto it.The wood is dry enough to finish if it absorbs the water.Continue to wait if the water beads on the surface.Purchase kiln-dried wood if you want to finish painting sooner.

Step 17: If you want to change the color of your bench, paint it or stain it.

It is better to use a finish that is made for exterior use.If you have a few clear and sunny days, apply your finish.Before painting, apply a coat of primer and let it dry.To apply stain evenly, work from the top to the bottom.You don't need to stain or paint the bench.

Step 18: Put cushions and pillows on your bench.

If you want to sit directly on the lid slats, put down a few extra outdoor cushions.If you have a bench against a wall, use pillows to support it.Once you are done using them, put the cushions and pillows away.You can buy cushions at home improvement stores.

Step 19: Casters on the feet will make it easier to move the bench.

Go to your local hardware store to get a set of the nuts.The same diameter holes can be made using your drill.Attach the nuts to the holes with a mallet.You can roll the bench around when you need to.When moving your bench, lock the casters so it doesn't roll on its own.It is easier to pull the handles on the sides of the bench.