A diamond-shaped piece is important for fitted pants.The crotch area is prone to getting bunched around it.While you are making a new pair of pants, you can add a gusset by ripping the crotch out of the existing pants.Adding a gusset will improve the fit and comfort of your pants.
Step 1: You can open up the seam of your pants.
If you want to add a gusset to finished pants, you need to open up the seam.A seam ripper can be used to open up the crotch area.Seam rippers look like a two pronged fork.The long point of the seam ripper can be used to catch stitches and the blade in the center of two prongs can cut a seam.You might need to use the seam ripper a few times to open the stitches.If your pants are too snug in the crotch and you want to make more room, or if the fit is a bit off, you may need to add a gusset.If you are making a pair of pants from a pattern, the pattern will tell you how to cut them with allowances.You won't need to worry about opening a seam in this case.Follow the instructions for cutting the pants.
Step 2: Determine the length and width.
There is a pattern you can use to determine the size of your gusset.Pin this piece onto your fabric by cutting it out.The fabric should be cut along the edge of the pattern.Measure to determine how much space you will need if you don't have a pattern.The person who will be wearing the pants needs to measure the gaps between their legs and crotch to make sure they fit.Add a 1” seam to each measurement you record.You can add 1” to each measurement for a total of 4” (10 cm) by 2” (5 cm).You will only need a piece that is about 4” to 5” (10 cm to 12.7 cm), long and wide, if you want to make a gurat.
Step 3: Measure and mark.
Measure and mark the points of your diamond shape with chalk.Draw lines between the points of your diamond shape on the fabric using a piece of chalk and a ruler.You should use your measurements to determine the distance between the points of the diamond.The longest measurement will be from one point of the diamond to another and the shortest from another point to its opposite point.
Step 4: The gusset needs to be cut out.
When you are done measuring and drawing your diamond onto the fabric, you can cut out the gusset piece by cutting along the edges you have drawn.Don't cut inside or outside of the lines.Make your cuts clean by cutting right along the lines.
Step 5: The crotch opening has a pin on it.
The pants in the crotch area need to be pinned to the gusset when you are done cutting it out.The right side of the pants and the gusset piece should be facing each other.The seam will be hidden when you sew them.The longest part should be at the back of the crotch.
Step 6: Attach the gusset with a Stitch.
You can use a temporary stitch to check the fit of a garment before making it permanent.An excellent fit in the crotch area of your pants can be ensured with the use of a baste stitch.The sewing machine should be set to the baste stitch setting.The pins should be removed as you sew.
Step 7: The person should try on the pants.
The person should try on the pants after you have added the stitch.Ask the person how they feel in the crotch area if you look at how the pants fit.You can take it in a bit if it seems too large.You can take it out if it seems small.If the fit looks good and you like it, you can sew your permanent stitch.
Step 8: The gusset should be removed and adjusted if necessary.
If you want to adjust the gusset, rip out the seam and use a seam ripper.The stitches should come out easily.The crotch should be re-pinned with the desired fit in mind.If you want the gusset to be a little loose, you can use a 12” seam allowance instead of a 2.5 cm one.If you want the gusset to be a little tighter, you can use a 1 12” seam allowance.When you have re-pinned your gusset, sew it into place again, and then have the person try on the pants again.If you're happy with the fit, you can sew the gusset into place.The fit can be adjusted again if it's still off.If the gusset piece is very ill fitting, you may need to start over and cut out a whole new piece.
Step 9: Attach the gusset with a straight stitch.
The sewing machine should be set to straight stitch.Begin to sew along the stitches you created.To get the fit that you want, sew directly over the stitch.When you get to the end of the gusset, backstitch a few times.Hold the lever on the side of your machine down for a few seconds to backstitch.The direction of your fabric will be reversed by this.Release the lever and sew to the end again.This may lead to puckering if you sew over the edge.Do not go past the edge of the piece if you sew right up to it.
Step 10: The zigzag stitch is optional.
The seam allowances will be sticking up when you are done sewing the seam.They are inside of the pants, so they will not be seen.You can use a zigzag stitch to tack down these pieces.If you want to tack down the pieces, set your machine to the zigzag setting and sew over the seam allowances.While you are tacking down the seam allowances, keep your pants turned inside out.It's optional, but it could increase the comfort of your pants.
Step 11: The excess thread should be cut.
When you are done sewing the gusset, use a pair of scissors to cut the excess thread around it.Depending on the amount of sewing you did, you may only have a few strands to cut.Your gusset is ready to go after you finish cutting the excess thread.If you only need to add the gusset, finish sewing your pants or try them on.